AGRIC,  DEPT.Main  Lib, 


w  HOW  TO  PLANT 


AND 

WHAT  TO  DO  WITH  THE  CROPS. 

TOGETHER  WITH  VALUABLE   HINTS  FOR  THE 

FARM,   GARDEN,  AND   ORCHARD. 

BY 

MARK   W.    JOHNSON, 

PBACTICAL,  HUSBANDMAN,  HOBTICULTURIST,   AND  F BTJIT-QBOWBB. 

ILLUSTRATED. 


NEW    YORK: 

0.   JUDD    CO.,   DAVID    W.   JUDD, 

751    BBO  AD  WA  Y. 

1886. 


PKES'T 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1886,  by 
DAVID   W.   JODD, 

In  the  Office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  Washington. 


CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Introduction 5 

Preliminary  Remarks  ;   Times  for  Sowing  Seeds.     Covering 

Seeds _ 7 

Field  Crops 9 

Garden  or  Vegetable  Seeds 37 

Sweet  Herbs,   Etc 59 

Tree  Seeds 62 

Flower  Seeds 63 

Fruit  Trees 64 

Distances  Apart  for  Fruit-Trees  and  Shrubs 65 

Profitable  Farming 68 

Green  or  Manuring  Crops 69 

Root  Crops 69 

Forage  Plants . 72 

What  to  Do  with  the  Crops 72 

The  Rotation  of  Crops 80 

Varieties 82 

Bird  Seeds 82 

Standard  Garden  Seeds 83 

Standard  Field  Seeds ...  .  86 


INTRODUCTION. 

A  book  giving  brief  and  simple  directions  for  planting 
all  field  and  garden  crops,  trees,  vines,  roots,  etc.,  seems 
to  be  generally  needed,  judging  from  the  numbers  of  en- 
quiries the  writer  has  for  something  of  the  kind  during 
the  planting  season  of  each  year.  The  writer  has  been 
unable  to  find  a  full  and  comprehensive  work  of  the  sort, 
hence  takes  upon  himself  the  task  of  writing  such  a  book. 
He  promises  the  reader  that  in  these  pages  he  shall  find 
instructions  sufficient  to  guide  him  in  planting  every  seed 
and  tree  or  vine  known  to  the  field,  orchard,  or  vegetable 
garden.  The  author  does  not  propose  to  give  a  full  de- 
scription of  varieties  and  their  uses,  as  this  volume  would 
then  become  too  large.  The  object  is  to  give  brief  and 
correct  instructions  as  to  when  and  how  to  plant  and  sow. 
Every  human  being  should  devote  a  part  of  his  or  her 
time  to  producing  something  from  the  soil,  even  if  it  be 
only  some  lovely  flower.  The  poet  sommands  us  to  sow, 
after  the  following  manner  : 

"  Sow  in  the  morn  thy  seed, 
At  eve  hold  not  thy  hand. 
Thou  knowest  not  which  shall  thrive, 
The  late  or  early  sown. 

"  And  duly  shall  appear, 
In  verdure,  beauty,  strength, 
The  tender  blade,  the  stalk,  the  ear, 
And  the  full  corn  at  length." 

The   Supreme  Architect  of  the  universe,  our  Great 
Creator,  in  Holy  Writ,  commands  us  to  sow  and  till  the 
ground,  for  in  His  revealed  word  we  find,  viz. :    "In  the 
(5) 


6  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

sweat  of  thy  face  shalt  thou  eat  bread." — Gen.,  4th  Ch., 
19th  v.  "The  Lord  God  sent  him  forth  from  the 
Garden  of  Eden  to  till  the  ground. "—Gen.  3  Ch.,  23  v. 
"Noah  planted  a  vineyard."— Gen.,  9th  Ch.,  20th  v. 
"And  Isaac  sowed  in  that  land  and  found  in  the  same 
year  an  hundred  fold,"  etc.— Gen.,  26  Ch.,  12,  13  v. 
"Elisha  plowed  with  twelve  yoke  of  oxen." — See  1  Kings, 
19th  Ch.,  19th  v. 

Elisha  no  doubt  was  a  good  and  successful  planter,  for 
he  evidently  broke  his  land  deep.  "The  ploughman 
shall  overtake  the  reaper,"  etc. — Amos,  9th  Ch.,  13th  to 
15th  v.  "But  they  shall  sit  every  man  under  his  vine, 
and  under  his  fig  tree,"  etc. — Micah.,  4th  Ch.,  3d  and 
4th  v.  "Behold,  the  sower  went  forth  to  sow,"  etc. — 
Math.,  13  Ch.,  4th  and  5th  v.,  31st  and  32d  v. 


HOW   TO    PLANT. 


SOME  PRELIMINARY  REMARKS. 

TIMES   FOR   SOWING  AND  PLANTING — COVERING   THE 
SEED. 

It  is  the  wish  of  the  author  to  make  this  work  national 
in  its  scope  and  useful  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  Being 
primarily  designed  to  aid  his  fellow  cultivators  in  the 
Southern  States,  the  times  for  sowing  and  planting  the 
various  crops  are  indicated  by  naming  the  months  proper 
for  these  operations.  Of  course,  while  February  or  March 
may  be  a  suitable  time  for  sowing  a  certain  seed  in  Geor- 
gia, in  the  Northern  States  the  ground  in  these  months 
months  is  usually  frozen  solid.  The  difficulty  in  in- 
dicating the  times  for  planting  in  a  manner  that  will 
answer  for  both  extremes  of  climate,  may  be  overcome  by 
the  planter  if  he  considers  a  few  simple  facts.  All  the 
plants  of  cultivation,  whether  in  the  field  or  garden,  fall 
into  one  of  two  classes  :  Tender  and  Hardy,  and  if  one 
knows  to  which  class  a  given  plant  belongs,  there  will  be 
no  difficulty  in  ascertaining  the  proper  time  for  sowing 
or  planting  it.  If  the  seeds  of  tender  plants  are  sown 
before  the  soil  is  well  warmed,  they  will  make  a  poor 
stand,  or  fail  to  appear  at  all,  all  the  seeds  having  rotted 
in  the  cold  soil.  Beans,  bush  and  pole,  melons,  squashes, 
and  all  of  that  family ;  the  tomato,  okra,  and  others 
are  tender  plants.  Our  chief  tender  plant  is  Indian  corn, 
which  is  cultivated  throughout  the  country.  Each  lo- 
cality, whether  in  the  far  East  or  far  West,  whether  upon 
"(7) 


8  HOW   TO    PLANT. 

the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  or  on  the  borders  of  the  great  Lakes, 
has  its  time  for  planting  corn,  fixed  by  years  of  observa- 
tion and  experience,  and  which,  in  a  series  of  years, 
varies  but  very  little.  Corn  requires  a  dry  and  warm 
soil,  the  weather  should  be  well  settled,  and  the  season 
of  cold  storms  past.  Wherever  these  conditions  are 
found,  without  regard  to  the  month,  corn  may  be  safely 
planted,  and  with  it,  all  other  tender  plants. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  fix  upon  the  time  for  hardy 
plants.  Cabbage,  and  all  of  its  family,  peas,  turnips  of 
all  kinds,  beets,  parsnips  and  others  are  hardy.  When- 
ever the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  and  the  soil  is  dry 
enough  to  work,  the  seeds  of  hardy  plants  may  go  in.  In 
all  the  Northern  States,  "as  soon  as  the  ground  is  in 
good  working  order"  is  a  sufficiently  definite  time  for 
planting  the  seeds  of  all. 

COVERING   THE   SEEDS. 

The  proper  covering  of  the  seeds,  after  they  have  been 
deposited  in  the  drill  or  row,  has  much  to  do  with  the 
success  of  the  crop.  If  in  covering  the  seeds  are  buried 


BOAJID  EOR  COVERING  SE3D. 

so  deep  that  the  germ,  the  little  plant  within  the  seed, 
can  not  reach  the  surface,  it  dies.  Though  the  seed  may 
have  been  perfectly  good,  there  will  be  no  crop.  Among 
the  various  devices  for  covering  seeds,  is  one  principally 
in  use  by  cotton  planters,  and  is  the  one  referred  to  in 
this  work,  when  after  sowing  seeds  it  is  directed  to 
"cover  with  a  board."  This  implement  is  made  of 
strong,  tough  timber,  one  inch  thick,  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  inches  long,  and  six  inches  wide,  slightly  curved 
underneath  as  in  figure  1.  This  board  is  attached  to  any 


FIELD   CHOPS.  9 

common,  single  one-horse  plow  stock,  by  using  the  same 
heel  bolt  that  is  used  for  fastening  on  the  plow  steels 
(scooters,  shovels,  bull-tongues,  etc.,  as  we  call  them.) 
When  the  soil  is  fine  and  free  from  rocks,  stumps,  etc., 
this  board  covers  beautifully  by  running  it  over  a  furrow 
in  which  cotton  seed  or  corn  has  been  dropped  or  sown. 
If  the  soil  be  of  a  tenacious  nature  and  liable  to  bake  or 
harden  after  a  rain,  it  is  not  best  to  use  this  board,  but 
in  its  stead  use  a  two-pronged  or  forked  plow,  which 
straddles  the  farrow,  leaving  a  slight  ridge  over  the  seed, 
and  in  case  of  baking,  this  can  be  knocked  off,  leaving  a 
loose  soil  for  the  seed  to  come  up  through. 


FIELD  CHOPS. 

We  commence  with  suggestions  as  to  the  planting  of 
field  crops. 

ARTICHOKE,  JERUSALEM. — (Helianthus  tuberosus.) 

The  White  French  and  Red  Brazilian  are  the  principal 
varieties.  The  plant  is  cultivated  as  a  root  crop,  for  the 
sake  of  its  tubers,  which  are  principally  used  for  feeding 
swine.  Ground  that  will  bring  good  potatoes  will  suit 
this  crop.  Break  the  ground  thoroughly  and  deeply,  lay 
off  rows  three  feet  apart,  break  the  artichokes  into  pieces 
containing  three  or  four  eyes,  drop  one  of  these  pieces 
every  eighteen  or  twenty  inches  in  the  drill,  and  cover 
three  to  four  inches  deep.  Plant  early — as  soon  as  the 
soil  is  in  working  condition.  Cultivate  the  same  as  In- 
dian corn.  The  tubers  may  be  dug  after  frost  or  may  be 
left  in  the  ground  to  be  dug  as  needed.  They  keep  better 
in  the  ground  than  any  where  else,  provided  the  soil  does 
not  freeze  over  three  or  four  inches  deep.  The  tubers  are 


10 


HOW   TO    PLANT. 


good  for  pickles,  and  not  bad  cooked  as  Irish  potatoes, 
and  seasoned  in  the  same  manner. 

THE  BEET. — (Beta  vulgar  is.) 

Among  the  many  varieties  of  the  beet,  the  Mangel- 
Wurzel  may  be  regarded  as  a  field 
crop.  Plant  in  February,  March, 
or  April,  as  soon  as  the  soil  is 
in  working  order.  Pulverize  the 
soil  fine  and  deep,  manure  highly 
unless  naturally  rich,  lay  off  rows  two 
feet  apart  and  one  to  two  inches  deep; 
in  these  rows  drill  the  seed  thinly, 
about  four  pounds  per  acre,  and 
cover  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  deep. 
When  the  plants  are  up,  thin  out 
to  five  to  eight  inches  apart.  Culti- 
vate and  keep  the  ground  clean  until 
the  plants  are  old  enough  to  take 
care  of  themselves.  Before  winter, 
dig,  and  at  the  South,  bank  the 
same  as  sweet  potatoes.  In  the 
colder  states  they  must  be  pitted  and 
covered  with  sufficient  straw  and 
earth  to  exclude  frost.  Good  for 
man  or  beast.  Non-ammoniated, 
or  old,  thoroughly  decayed  manure, 
or  non-ammoniated  fertilizers  are 
best  for  this  crop.  Use  as  other 
beets  while  young.  For  cattle,  boil 
MANGEL-WURZEL  BEET.  or  cut  to  pieces  and  feed. 

BEAXS,  BUSH. — (Phaseolus  vulgaris.) 
The  dwarf,  or  bush  beans  are  also  called  White  Marrow, 

Kidney,  Navy  or  "Yankee"  beans. 

Plant  during  May  or  June,  or  whenever  it  is  safe  to 

plant  corn,  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  dropping  three  or 


FIELD   CROPS.  II 

four  beans  every  six  to  eight  inches  in  the  row  ;  cover  one 
to  two  inches  ;  cultivate  and  keep  clean.  Ground  rich 
in  potash  and  phosphoric  acid  is  best  suited  to  the 
bean  crop.  Therefore,  wood-ashes,  or  those  from  the 
cotton  seed  hulls,  and  ground  bone  would  be  good  fertil- 
izers to  use. 


CORN.  —  (Zea  mays.) 

This  important  crop  may  be  divided  into  three  classes  : 
The  common,  or  late  field  kinds,  the  early  kinds,  or  the 
green  corn  varieties,  and  the  sweet  or  sugar  corn,  of 
which  there  are  many  kinds. 

FIELD  CoRisr.  —  The  large,  late  corn,  such  as  is  usually 
planted  throughout  the  Southern  States  for  the  main 
crop,  should  be  given  a  greater  distance  between  the 
plants  than  the  early  and  sugar  varieties.  Corn  needs 
a  rich  soil.  Do  not  plant  it  unless  you  have  either  a  rich 
soil,  or  plenty  of  manure.  Commercial  fertilizers  act 
finely  on  corn  crops.  The  richer  the  land,  the  more  the 
corn  can  be  crowded,  but  the  most  appioved  plan  for 
planting  large,  late  varieties,  is  :  to  lay  off  furrows  six 
feet  apart  and  four  inches  deep,  then  drop  the  seed  eight 
to  ten  inches,  covering  two  or  three  inches  deep  so  as  to 
leave  the  corn  plant  a  little  below  the  surface  when  it 
comes  up.  Thin  out  the  corn  sixteen  to  twenty  inches 
apart  ;  after  the  first  working  cultivate  shallow  and  level. 
Corn  will  very  well  bear  crowding  in  the  furrow,  provided 
it  is  given  sufficient  distance  between  rows.  Leave  the 
land  level  when  laid  by.  Plant  a  row  of  beans  between 
the  rows  of  corn  in  June.  Another  plan  is,  to  check 
the  land  off  three  and  one-half  to  four  feet  each  way, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  soil.  Drop  three  or  four 
kernels  in  each  check  and  cover  two  or  three  inches  deep. 
At  the  first  plowing  thin  out  to  one  stalk  in  a  hill. 
When  planted  in  this  manner,  plowing  may  be  done  both 
ways,  thereby  avoiding  hoeing.  The  yield,  however,  will 


HOW   TO   PLANT. 


not  be  so  heavy  as  when  planted  according  to  the  method 
given  above.  Begin  planting  just  as  soon  as  frosts  are 
over  in  the  spring,  say  from  the  20th  of  February  to  the 
first  of  April,  the  earlier  the  better. 


INDIAN   CORN. 


In  the  Northern  States,  each  locality,  in  the  older 
states  at  least,  has  its  "  corn  planting  time,"  fixed  through 
a  long  series  of  observations.  It  may  be  remarked  here 
that,  v/henever  the  season  in  a  given  locality  is  favorable 


FIELD   CROPS.  13 

for  planting  corn,  all  other  tender  plants  may  be  safely 
planted. 

EARLY  FIELD  CORK.  —  These  varieties  will  stand 
thicker  planting.  Begin  planting,  say  March  1st,  and 
this  may  be  followed  by  others  made  at  intervals  of  two 
or  three  weeks  until  July  1st. 

Lay  off  rows  five  feet  apart,  drop  the  grains  every  five 
to  ten  inches  in  the  row  ;  when  up,  thin  to  ten  to  twenty 
inches  apart,  or  plant  in  checks,  about  three  and  one-half 
feet  each  way,  dropping  a  sufficient  number  of  kernels  to 
secure  a  stand,  say  three  to  four  in  each  check,  or  hill. 
Thin  to  one  stalk  in  a  hill  at  the  first  working,  unless 
the  soil  is  very  rich,  in  which  case  two  may  be  left  in  a 
hill. 

SUGAR  OR  SWEET  CORN  is  used  altogether  for  roast- 
ing ears,  or  eating  in  a  green  state,  and  for  this  purpose 
is  far  superior  to  the  hard,  white  or  yellow  field  varieties. 

In  planting,  follow  the  directions  given  for  the  early 
field  varieties,  observing  that  the  earlier  the  variety  the 
thicker  it  may  be  planted.  Bear  in  mind  that  corn  may 
be  planted  very  much  thicker  in  such-  rich  soils  as  the 
Mississippi  bottoms,  and  the  rich  prairies  of  the  North- 
west. 

Pop  CORN. — This  is  a  small  variety  and  is  solely  used 
for  popping.  Being  small  it  may  be  planted  thickly. 

Lay  off  furrows  two  or  three  inches  deep,  in  rich,  well 
prepared  soil  thirty  to  thirty-six  inches  apart,  and  drop 
the  corn  four  to  six  inches  apart  in  the  drill.  Cover  one 
to  two  inches  deep,  and  keep  clean  until  tassels  and  silks 
appear. 

ENSILAGE  OR  FODDER  CORN. — Any  kind  of  large, 
vigorous  growing  Indian  corn  may  be  planted  for  the  silo, 
or  to  be  cured  as  fodder  corn.  Mark  out  in  very  rich  or 
well  fertilized  soil,  some  four  feet  apart  and  drill  in  the 
seed  quite  thickly,  averaging  a  kernel  to  every  two  inches. 


14 


HOW    TO   PLANT. 


Plant  from  March  1st  to  June  30th.,  the  earlier  the  bet- 
ter. Cultivate  shallow  until  waist  high ;  cut  after  the 
tassel  and  silk  appear,  and  cure  as  you  may  see  proper. 
There  is  no  better  rough  food  for  stook  than  this.  Ensi- 
lage, as  curing  or  preserving  green  fodder  in  pits,  as  it  is 
called,  is  highly  recommended. 

WATERMELON — ( Citrullus  vulgaris. ) 

To  grow  watermelons  as  a  field  crop,  break  the  land 
thoroughly,  and  manure  freely  with  either  old  lot  ma- 
nure, or  commercial  ammoniated  superphosate,  contain- 


WATERMELON. — "  THE   BOSS. 


ing  a  high  percentage  of  potash.  Plant  as  soon  as 
danger  of  frosts  is  over.  Check  off  the  ground  eight 
feet  each  way,  make  a  fine,  soft  hill  in  each  check,  drop 
three  to  four  seeds  to  each  hill,  and  cover  one  to  two 
inches  deep.  When  up,  thin  to  two  vines  to  each  hill, 
keep  clean  by  frequent  cultivation  until  the  vines  occupy 
the  ground. 


FIELD    CROPS.  15 

A  good  manure  is  two  to  six  spadefuls  of  well  rotted 
stable  manure,   the  same  quantity  of  hard  wood- ashes, 


WATERMELON. — KOLB'S  GEM. 

and  of  muck  or  swamp  earth  thoroughly  mixed  and  ap- 
plied to  each  hill.  Plantings  for  a  fall  crop  in  the  South- 
ern States  may  be  made  in  June. 

MUSKMELOK,    OR    CANTALOUPE. 

Prepare  and  manure  the  same  as  for  watermelons,  ex- 
cept that  the  land  should  be  checked  off  four  feet  apart 
each  way.  When  danger  of  frost  has  passed,  plant  four 
or  five  seeds  to  the  hill ;  when  up,  thin  to  two  plants  to 
the  hill.  Keep  clean  by  shallow  and  frequent  cultiva- 
tion until  the  vines  occupy  the  ground.  Some  sow  in  a 
continuous  drill,  the  rows  being  four  feet  apart.  Late 
plantings  are  apt  to  be  destroyed  by  worms. 

CARROT — (Daucus  Carota.}. 

The  large  Belgian  and  Long  Orange  are  the  best  to 
plant  for  stock,  and  properly  belong  among  field  crops. 
Select  a  piece  of  rich  land,  or  make  it  rich,  and  break  it 
up  ten  to  eighteen  inches  deep,  and  thoroughly  pulverize 
the  soil.  Lay  off  rows  eighteen  to  twenty-four  inches 
apart,  and  one  inch  deep,  in  which  drill  the  seed  thinly, 


16  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

and  cover  about  half  an  inch  deep.  Four  pounds  of  seed 
will  plant  an  acre.  Thin  the  young  plants  to  three 
or  four  inches  apart.  Plant  during  March  and  April. 
This  carrot  is  one  of  the  most  profitable  crops,  and  in  the 
Southern  States  will  remain  sound  in  the  ground  through- 
out the  entire  winter.  It  is  important  to  plant  early,  as 
carrot  seed  will  not  germinate  well  after  the  weather  gets 
warm  and  dry. 

PEAS. — THE   SOUTHERN   COW   PEA. — (DolicllOS,  Sp.) 

These,  which  are  also  called  Southern  Field  or  Stock 
peas,  form  one  of  the  most  useful  of  all  field  crops.  The 
varieties  are  very  numerous,  yet  there  is  not  much  dif- 
ference among  them.  They  may  be  divided  into  ttfo 
classes,  viz. :  The  running  or  climbing  kinds,  and  the 
dwarf  or  bunch  sorts.  Plant  soon  after  the  spring 
weather  gets  warm.  Any  kind  of  soil  will  produce  peas, 
if  not  too  damp  or  too  rich.  If  the  object  be  to  produce 
a  crop  of  peas  for  seed  or  winter  use,  break  up  the  land 
thoroughly,  and,  for  the  running  varieties,  check  off  the 
ground  two  by  four  feet,  dropping  six  to  eight  peas  in 
each  check  ;  cover  one  to  two  inches  deep.  The  dwarf 
varieties  may  be  planted  in  rows  three  feet  apart,  drop- 
ping four  to  six  peas  every  twelve  inches  in  the  row. 
Cultivate  until  they  begin  to  bloom,  or  until  the  vines 
cover  the  ground. 

If  the  object  is  to  make  hay,  sow  broadcast  one  bushel 
of  the  running  kinds  or  two  bushels  of  the  dwarfs  to  the 
acre,  and  plow  in  with  a  light  cultivator  or  "  scooter  "  ; 
cut  and  cure  when  the  young  pods  upon  the  vines  are 
half  grown. 

Some  varieties  of  this  pea  are  very  desirable  for  table 
use,  such  as  the  "  Crowder,"  the  "Lady,"  the  "Couch," 
the  "White  with  Black  Eye,"  the  "Coffee,"  etc.  The 
"  Whip-poor- Will,"  "  Coffee  "  and  "Small  White  Davis  " 
are  dwarf,  and  the  "Clay,"  "Black,"  "Tory,"  "Red," 


FIELD   CROPS.  17 

"Bed  Ripper,"  "Crowder,"  "  White  with  Black  Eye," 
"Purple,"  "Calico,"  and  other  fancy  colored  kinds  are 
runners. 

Peas  may  be  planted  in  growing  corn  to  good  advan- 
tage ;  about  the  first  of  June  plant  a  row  of  peas  between 
the  rows  of  corn. 

The  "  Small  White,"  "  White  Crowder,"  "  White  with 
Black  Eye,"  and  "Coffee"  peas  are  best  varieties  for 
table  use. 

HEMP. — (Cannabis  saliva.) 

Select  a  moderately  tenacious  soil,  or  what  is  much 
better,  a  rich  aleuvial  loam,  and  thoroughly  pulverize  it 
by  plowing  and  harrowing.  Sow  broadcast  four  to  six 
pecks  of  seed  per  acre,  as  early  in  spring  as  possible  to 
avoid  frosts.  Harvest  when  the  blooms  turn  yellow  and 
the  leaves  begin  to  drop.  The  fibre  of  the  inner  bark  is 
used  in  the  manufacture  of  cordage.  If  the  object  is  to 
raise  seed,  then  plant  in  checks  three  and  one-half  feet 
each  way,  leaving  at  least  three  plants  to  a  hill ;  cultivate 
thoroughly. 

FLAX. — (Linum  usitatissimnm. ) 

Sow  early  in  the  spring,  about  three  pecks  per  acre, 
broadcast,  on  finely  pulverized  land,  and  cover  lightly 
with  harrow  or  brush.  It  does  well  on  any  good,  thor- 
oughly drained  soil,  but  does  best  upon  rich  sandy  loams. 
The  filaments  obtained  from  its  fibrous  covering  are  used 
in  the  manufacture  of  linen  and  linen  thread.  Linseed 
oil  is  made  from  the  seeds.  The  oil  cake  is  good  cattle 
food.  The  seed  is  also  employed  in  medicine. 

SWEET  POTATO. — (Ipomcea  Batatas.) 

During  February  or  March,  dig  out  a  bed  of  any  size 
that  may  be  needed,  six  or  eight  inches  below  the  sur- 
face. Fill  up  with  fresh  stable  manure  or  something  equally 
heating,  press  the  manure  down  firmly ;  spread  rich  top 


18  HOW    TO   PLANT. 

soil  o^ver  the  manure,  about  half  an  inch  to  one  inch 
thick.  On  this  bed  lay  the  potatoes  thickly,  but  so  as 
not  to  touch  one  another.  Scatter  lightly  some  thorough- 
ly rotted  manure  over  the  potatoes,  and  cover  about  four 
or  five  inches  deep  with  top  soil.  After  frosts  are  over 
rake  off  this  soil  to  two  inches  in  depth,  and  soon  the 
sprouts  will  begin  to  appear,  and  in  a  few  days  will  be 
ready  for  transplanting  to  the  field.  To  prepare  the  field, 
plow  the  land  thoroughly,  six  to  eight  inches  deep,  lay 
off  rows  three  feet  apart,  apply  well  rotted  manure,  or 
ammoniated  superphosphate,  in  this  furrow  (two  to  four 
hundred  pounds  of  the  latter  per  acre).  Cover  by  run- 
ning a  turn  plow  on  each  side  of  the  rows,  so  as  to  make 
a  good  soft  bed.  Draw  the  plants  or  slips,  and  plant 
them  about  eighteen  inches  apart,  on  the  ridge  you  have 
prepared.  Keep  the  crop  clear  of  grass,  by  plowing  and 
and  hoeing,  until  the  vines  begin  to  run  freely,  then  hill 
up  and  lay  by,  being  careful  not  to  permit  the  vines  to 
take  root  between  the  rows.  Dig  and  house  after  the  first 
frost.  Banking  them  out  of  doors  in  the  Southern  states, 
is  as  good  a  plan  as  any. 

PUMPKINS. — (Cucurlita  Pepo.) 

Common  field  pumpkins  may  be  profitably  planted 
about  in  the  growing  corn.  From  the  latter  part  of  May 
until  the  last  of  June  plant  three  or  four  seeds  to  the 
hill ;  make  hills  ten  to  fifteen  feet  apart,  and  on  about 
every  fourth  or  fifth  row.  Pumpkins  may  also  be  simi- 
larly planted  by  themselves  on  rich  ground. 

BEOOM  CORN. — (Sorghum  vulgare,  YAR.) 
Broom  Corn  requires  good  strong  land,  well  prepared, 
and  on  which  water  will  not  stand.  Plant  about  the  first 
of  March,  or  as  soon  as  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  Lay 
off  rows  four  to  four  and  one-half  feet  apart,  in  which 
drill  the  seed  thinly  and  cover  about  one  inch  deep. 
When  up,  thin  to  two  or  four  inches  apart  and  cultivate 


FIELD   CROPS.  19 

well  until  it  shows  signs  of  heading,  then  it  will  take  care 
of  itself.  Special  instructions  will  be  needed  for  curing 
it  and  preparing  it  for  brooms. 

COTTON,  UPLAND. — (Gossypium  herlaceum.) 

Upland,  or  short  staple  cotton  is  the  greatest  agricul- 
tural product  of  the  Southern  States,  and  one  of  the  most 
important  crops  of  the  world,  yet  one  of  the  easiest 
grown.  It  will  grow  upon  any  kind  of  soil  if  naturally 
well  drained.  The  duty  of  the  planters  of  the  Southern 
States  is  first  to  plant  a  sufficient  provision  crop  for  home 
use,  and  only  for  home  use,  and  then  put  the  balance  of 
their  energies  into  a  cotton  crop. 

Prepare  the  land  by  thorough  breaking  with  the  plow. 
Plant  when  all  danger  of  frost  is  over.  Cotton  delights 
in  a  warm  soil.  From  the  first  of  April  to  the  first  of 
May  is  perhaps  the  best  season  for  planting,  The  dis- 
tance between  the  rows  and  the  hills  depends  upon  the 
poverty  or  fertility  of  the  soil ;  usually  the  rows  are  laid 
off  from  thirty  to  forty-two  inches  apart ;  on  rich  bot- 
toms or  very  strong  soils  the  rows  should  be  five  to  six 
feet  apart,  and  the  stand  left  to  three  to  four  feet  in  the 
row.  After  laying  off  the  rows  with  a  straight  shovel 
plow,  throw  two  furrows  each  side  of  it  to  the  row  with 
"twisters"  or  small  turn  shovels,  either  with  one  horse 
or  a  two-horse  sulky,  or  walking  cultivator.  When  ready 
to  plant,  open  the  bed  thus  made  with  a  straight  shovel 
plow,  and  in  this  furrow  apply  the  manure  or  ammo- 
niated  superphosphate  of  lime.  Some  then  drill  in  the 
seed  at  once,  upon  the  fertilizer,  but  a  better  plan  is  to 
cover  the  furrow  after  applying  the  fertilizers  and  then 
re-open,  after  which  you  are  ready  to  plant. 

Drill  thinly  but  continuously  one  to  one  and  one-half 
bushels  of  seed  per  acre  in  the  furrow,  then  cover  with  a 
board  or  forked  plow,  about  one  to  two  inches  deep,  ac- 
cording to  the  nature  of  the  soil.  Hard,  baking  soils 


20  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

should  be  covered  lightly.  After  the  cotton  plants  come 
up,  run  round  with  a  narrow  cultivator,  and  with  a  hoe 
chop  out  the  superfluous  plants,  leaving  three  to  four 
plants  every  six  to  ten  inches.  After  the  plants  attain 
four  to  six  leaves,  run  a  cultivator  between  the  rows  again, 
and  with  the  hoe  cut  out  to  two  stalks  to  the  hill,  after 
which  cultivate,  as  often  as  may  be  necessary,  making  sure 
that  the  crop  is  kept  perfectly  clear  of  grass  and  weeds 
until  the  ground  is  pretty  well  shaded  by  the  plants, 
when  it  may  be  laid  by. 

Cotton  does  not  need  deep  plowing  ;  after  planting,  let 
the  cultivation  be  shallow.  As  near  as  it  may  be  practi- 
cable, let  the  rows  run  east  and  west,  so  that  the  sun 
may  shine  through  them  all  day.  Cotton  will  not  suc- 
ceed upon  damp  soils.  Fertilizers  containing  potash  and 
phosphoric  acid  are  best  adapted  to  the  plant.  An  excess 
of  ammonia  produces  an  excess  of  weed  at  the  expense  of 
the  staple.  On  very  rich  lands  leave  the  plants  about 
two  to  three  feet  apart  in  the  row.  Use  a  cotton  planter 
in  drilling  in  the  seed. 

SEA  ISLAND  COTTON. — (Gossypium  Barbadense.) 

Sea  Island,  or  Long  Staple  Cotton,  is  planted  in  about 
ths  same  manner  as  the  upland.  It  is,  however,  useless 
to  plant  it  away  from  the  sea.  Its  home  seems  to  be  on 
the  islands  and  along  the  sea  coasts  of  Georgia,  South 
Carolina  and  Florida. 

BARLEY. — (Hordeum  vulgare.) 

There  are  two  kinds  of  this  valuable  grain,  viz.,  spring 
and  winter.  The  former  is  adapted  to  extreme  cold  cli- 
mates, and  the  latter  to  the  Southern  States  or  warmer 
climates.  In  the  South,  prepare  the  land  finely  by  plow- 
ing ;  sow  broadcast,  in  September  or  October,  two  to 
three  bushels  per  acre  ;  cover  one  to  two  inches  deep  with 
a  plow  or  cultivator.  Cut  and  feed  to  stock  when  the 
seeds  are  in  the  milk  state,  or  let  stand  to  ripen  for  seed. 


FIELD   CROPS. 

Barley  requires  very  rich  land.  The  winter  variety  to 
be  sown  in  the  Southern  States  during  the  fall,  and  the 
spring  variety  to  be  sown  in  the  Northern  States  during 
early  spring. 

BUCKWHEAT. — (Fagopyrum  esculentum. ) 

There  are  two  varieties  of  Buckwheat,  the  common 
Black  and  the  Silver  Hull ;  both  are  good  and  there  is  but 
little  difference  between  them.  Sow  one  bushel  per  acre, 
broadcast,  in  April,  May,  June,  July  or  August,  and  plow 
or  harrow  in  lightly.  It  grows  freely  on  any  kind  of  soil. 

OATS. — (A  vena  sativa. ) 

In  the  Southern  States  sow  from  August  15th  to  Octo- 
ber 15th,  and  from  February  15th  to  March  15th.  If 
sown  between  the  above  dates  the  crop  is  liable  to  be 
killed  by  freezing  in  winter.  In  the  Northern  States  sow 
in  the  spring  only,  and  as  early  as  possible,  and  yet  avoid 
freezing.  Prepare  the  land  well  by  thorough  plowing  six 
to  eight  inches  deep.  Sow  from  one  to  three  bushels  per 
acre,  broadcast,  and  cover  lightly  with  the  harrow  or  cul- 
tivator. Oats  require  rich  soil.  Commercial  fertilizers 
are  well  suited  to  this,  as  well  as  to  all  grain  crops.  On 
very  rich  land,  excessively  large  crops  have  been  made  by 
sowing  six  bushels  of  seed  to  the  acre.  Harvest  when 
the  heads  begin  to  turn  brown,  and  before  the  seed  is  ripe. 

RYE. — (Secale  r,ereale.) 

There  are  two  varieties  of  rye,  viz. ,  spring  and  winter. 
Winter  rye  is  the  only  one  at  all  suited  to  the  Southern 
States.  Either  spring  or  winter  rye  may  be  sown  in  the 
Northern  States.  Eye  will  grow  on  land  too  poor  to  produce 
barley  ;  yet  the  better  the  land  the  better  will  be  the  rye. 
Sow  from  Angust  15  to  November  15th  in  the  Southern 
States.  Plow  the  land  thoroughly  and  broadcast  one  to 
three  bushels  of  seed  per  acre  ;  plow  or  harrow  in  lightly. 
It  may  also  be  sown  in  drills  twenty  to  thirty  inches 


22  HOW   TO    PLAKT. 

apart,  and  cut  and  fed  green  to  stock.     Several  cuttings 
may  be  made  during  the  season. 

In  the  Northern  States  sow  the  winter  rye  in  August 
and  September,  and  the  spring  rye  in  March  and  April. 

KICE. — (Oryza  sativa.) 

For  a  sure  crop,  select  low,  moist  soils,  which  must  be 
rich,  and  so  situated  as  that  the  land  may  be  irrigated  at 
will  at  any  time.  It  is  a  good  plan  to  cover  the  growing 
crop  with  water  the  most  of  the  time,  as  this  prevents 
the  growth  of  grass  and  weeds,  but  does  not  interfere 
with  the  growth  of  the  rice.  By  this  means,  a  vast  deal 
of  hand-picking  and  hoeing  is  avoided.  The  White 
Upland  Rice  succeeds  very  well  on  the  valley  or  second 
bottom  lands  of  middle  and  upper  Georgia,  even  as  high 
up  as  White  County.  Irrigation  does  not  appear  to  be 
necessary  with  this  variety  on  the  uplands.  Sow  as  early 
in  the  spring  as  possible,  and  yet  avoid  frost.  Lay  off 
rows  three  or  four  inches  deep,  thirty  to  thirty-two  inches 
apart,  in  \\hich  drill  the  seed  rather  thickly,  averaging 
three  or  four  to  the  inch.  Cover  with  a  beard  or  harrow. 
Keep  clear  of  weeds  and  grass. 

WHEAT. — ( Triticum  vulgar e. ) 

This  is  the  most  important  bread  crop  in  the  world. 
Select  high  and  dry  land  if  possible,  and  if  not  naturally 
rich  make  it  so.  Pulverize  the  soil  thoroughly  by  plowing 
and  harrowing.  It  is  not  so  necessary  to  plow  deeply  for 
wheat  as  it  is  to  make  the  soil  fine.  In  the  Southern 
States  sow  from  October  1st  to  December  1st,  the  earlier 
the  better.  Sow  in  September  in  the  Northern  States, 
unless  where  the  climate  is  too  cold,  when  spring  sowing 
will  be  safest.  Sow  broadcast  or  with  a  grain-drill,  from 
four  to  five  pecks  per  acre.  Cover  lightly  ;  also  roll  after 
sowing,  if  practicable.  Wheat  delights  in  a  compact  soil. 
Bone  dust  and  hard-wood  ashes  make  a  complete  fertil- 


FIELD   CROPS.       :  •'.;.'.  •  2o> 

izer  for  wheat.  Too  much  highly  ammoniacal  manure 
will  destroy  the  crop.  Cotton  seed  meal  and  acid  phos- 
phate is  good.  Before  planting,  soak  the  seed  in  a  solu- 
tion of  blue  stone  (sulphate  of  copper)  for  at  least  twelve 
hours  in  order  to  destroy  the  smut  germ.  • 

SUGAR  CA^E. — (Sacharum  officinarum.) 

Plant  in  February  or  March  in  very  rich  ground.  Sandy 
loam  is  to  be  preferred.  Procure  well  matured,  sound 
canes  ;  lay  off  rows  five  feet  apart  and  five  or  six  inches 
deep,  with  a  wide  one-horse  shovel-plow.  Lay  the  canes 
in  the  furrows,  one  after  another  continuously ;  cover 
four  or  fives  inches  deep  ;  cultivate  same  as  corn. 

SORGHUM. — (Sorghum  vulgare,  VAR.) 

This  is  a  most  useful  and  staple  crop,  and  is  adapted 
to  every  section  of  the  United  States  of  North  America. 
Every  farmer  may  easily  grow  his  own  sugar  and  syrup  at 
home.  Plant  from  March  10th  to  May  10th.  Lay  off 
rows  in  well  plowed  soil  four  feet  by  two  feet  apart,  six  to 
eight  seeds  in  each  check.  Cover  lighly  with  the  harrow 
or  board  ;  let  four  to  five  plants  grow  to  the  hill.  Culti- 
vate shallow  ;  keep  the  crop  clean  of  all  grass  amd  weeds 
until  three  to  four  feet  high,  when  it  may  be  laid  by. 

Some  prefer  planting  in  a  continuous  drill,  leaving  the 
plants  one  to  two  inches  apart.  Sorghum  prefers  gray 
soils  naturally  well  drained.  Heating  manures  are  not 
suited  to  it.  Ammoniated  superphosphate,  bone  dust 
and  hard  wood-ashes  are  good,  also  acid  phosphate  and 
cotton  seed  meal.  Harvest  when  the  seed  is  half  ripe. 

MILLO   MAIZE. 

This  new  and  most  wonderful  forage  plant  is  now  gen- 
erally introduced,  and  is  a  valuable  acquisition.  Plant  as 
early  as  possible  after  frosts  are  over,  on  any  kind  of  soil, 
on  high  or  low  lands.  Prepare  the  land  very  thoroughly, 
making  it  finely  pulverized  ;  the  richer  the  land  the 

270398 


,;?4  ";}     :     iIOW;TO   PLANT. 

heavier  will  be  the  yield.  Lay  off  shallow  rows  four  to 
five  feet  apart,  in  which  drill  the  seed  lightly,  and  cover 
from  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  deep.  Some  prefer  planting 
in  checks,  three  feet  by  four  or  five  feet,  according  to  the 
richness  of  the  soil — dropping  five  or  six  seeds  to  the  hill ; 
cultivate  carefully  while  young,  until  waist  high,  when  it 
may  be  left  alone.  It  may  be  cut  green  three  times  or 
more  during  the  season,  or  be  left  to  bear  seed  ;  cut  off 
the  seed  heads,  and  after  a  few  days  strip  off  the  fodder, 
and  before  frost  cut  down  the  stalks  and  store  undercover 
for  winter  feed.  The  heads,  fodder  and  stalks  are  all  good 
food  for  cattle  or  horses.  The  yield  is  enormous  on  rich 
soils.  To  raise  seeds,  plant  thinly,  in  rows  five  feet  apart, 
and  with  the  plants  one  to  two  feet  apart  in  rows.  Let 
the  crop  remain  standing  until  the  seeds  mature. 

SUGAR  MILLET. 

Take  the  early  amber  sorghum  and  sow  thickly  in  drills 
three  and  one-half  to  four  feet  apart.  This  will  make  a 
good  forage  to  feed,  either  green  or  cured  for  winter. 
Plant  from  May  15th  to  June  15th  ;  cut  when  the  seeds 
are  about  half  ripe.  Make  into  shocks  and  cure  it. 

TEOSINTE. — (Euchlcena  luxurians. ) 

This  is  a  newly  imported  forage  plant,  which  yields 
a  greater  weight  of  rich,  succulent  feed  than  any  other 
plant  of  which  I  have  any  knowledge.  It,  however, 
does  not  produce  seed  in  this  country,  which  is  unfortu- 
nate. The  seeds  must  be  procured  from  seedsmen,  who 
import  them  annually  from  the  East  Indies.  Plant  only 
on  rich  ground.  Prepare  the  soil  well,  and  so  soon  as 
frosts  are  over,  check  off  the  land  four-and-a-half  feet 
square,  and  drop  three  or  four  seeds  in  each  hill ;  cover 
one  to  two  inches  deep.  Cultivate  carefully,  the  same  as 
corn,  until  it  about  covers  the  ground.  It  may  be  cut 
and  fed  green,  or  be  allowed  to  remain  until  just  before 
frosts,  then  cut  and  cure  for  winter  use  in  same  manner 


.       L  • 

FIELD   CROPS.  25 

as  fodder  corn  ;  or  it  may  be  used  as  ensilage.  One  pound 
of  seed  will  plant  an  acre.     The  yield  is  enormous. 

CAT-TAIL  MILLET. — (Penicillaria  spicata.) 

The  Cat-tail  millet  of  the  Southern  states  is  also  known 
as  Pearl  millet,  and  is  called  by  some,  Egyptian  millet, 
Horse  millet,  etc.  Select  very  rich  land,  or  fertilize  the 
land  highly,  and  make  it  smooth  and  fine.  Sow  imme- 
diately after  the  weather  becomes  warm  in  the  spring. 
-Lay  off  shallow  rows,  four  feet  apart,  in  which  drill  the 
seed,  thinly,  and  cover  half  an  inch  deep,  using  great 
care  to  cover  with  fine  light  soil.  After  the  plants  are 
well  up,  thin  to  one  plant  every  ten  or  fifteen  inches. 
Keep  clear  of  weeds  and  grass  while  young ;  after  the 
plant  has  reached  the  height  of  about  three  feet,  cut  and 
feed  to  horses  or  cows.  It  continues  to  grow  up  rapidly 
after  cutting,  and  may  be  cut  several  times  during  the 
growing  season.  If  it  is  desired  to  raise  seed,  thin  out 
the  plants  to  three  feet  apart. 

GERMAN  MILLET. — (Panicum  Icalicum,  VAR.) 

This  is  sometimes  called  Golden  millet.  Sow  broad- 
cast, from  May  first  to  July  fifteenth,  one  half  a  bushel 
to  one  bushel  to  per  acre,  according  to  the  strength  of 
the  land.  Harrow  or  brush  in  the  seed  on  finely  pulver- 
ized soil.  Harvest  when  the  seed  are  in  the  milk  state, 
and  cure  for  hay. 

HUNGARIAN"  MILLET. — (Panicum  Italicum,  VAR.) 

This,  which  is  also  called  Hungarian  grass,  may  be 
sown  according  to  the  directions  given  for  German  millet, 
save  as  to  the  quantity  of  seed  to  sow  per  acre.  From 
twelve  to  twenty-four  pounds  of  seed  is  sufficient  for  an 
acre.  Hungarian  grass  has  not  so  large  a  growth,  and  it 
matures  a  little  earlier  than  German  millet.  It  makes  a 
fine  hay,  and  is  the  quickest  crop  known  to  the  catalogue. 


&b  HOW   TO    FLINT. 

DHOURRA  CORN". — (Sorghum  vulgare.) 

There  are  brown  and  white  seeded  varieties.  Plant  in 
March  or  April,  or  after  frosts  are  over.  It  requires  a 
rich  or  well  manured  soil,  which  is  well  plowed  or  pul- 
verized. Lay  oS  rows  four-and-a-half  feet  apart  with  a 
row  plow,  in  which  drop  the  seed  thinly,  so  as  to  average 
one  seed  every  two  to  four  inches.  Cultivate  shallow  and 
frequently,  and  at  first  cultivation  thin  to  one  plant  every 
eight  to  twelve  inches.  The  seed  when  ripe  are  very  fine 
for  fowls,  good  to  parch,  and  good  for  bread.  Requires 
the  full  season  to  mature  it. 

EGYPTIAN   RICE   CORN,    OR   IVORY   WHEAT. 

This,  which  is  a  variety  of  the  foregoing,  is  planted, 
cultivated  and  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  Dhourra. 
It  matures  much  earlier.  A  desirable  crop. 

RURAL  BRANCHING   SORGHUM. 

Similar  to  Dhourra.    Plant  and  cultivate  in  same  way. 

FODDER  OR  FORAGE  CORN. 

Indian  corn,  either  the  field  or  sugar  varieties,  makes 
an  excellent  forage.  Plant  on  any  rich  and  thoroughly 
prepared  soil,  from  March  first  to  July  first,  in  drills  four 
to  five  feet  apart,  sowing  about  three  bushels  of  seed  per 
acre.  Cover  two  to  three  inches  deep.  Cultivate  it  with 
plow  or  cultivator  until  waist  high.  It  is  ready  to  cut 
and  cure  when  the  tassels  and  silks  have  appeared. 

KAFFA   CORN. 

From  Kaffa,  East  Africa,  south  of  Abyssinia  and  west 
of  Somanh.  This  plant  very  much  resembles  Millo  Maize, 
and  Rural  Branching  Sorghum.  It  is  planted  in  same 
manner  and  at  the  same  time.  It  is  more  desirable,  as  it 
is  much  earlier.  It  matures  an  abundant  crop  of  seed  in 
August  and  September.  Makes  excellent  bread.  Very 
desirable. 


FIELD   CROPS.  27 

SPANISH  CHUFA. — (Cyperus  esculentus.) 

This  is  a  very  rich,  sweet,  nut-like  tuber,  growing  at 
the  root  of  the  plant.  It  is  healthful  and  nutritious,  and 
is  good  for  the  table  or  as  food  for  hogs  and  fowls.  It  is 
very  productive.  Old  land,  destitute  of  vegetable  matter, 
will  not  answer  for  the  Chufa.  The  plant  requires  a  rath- 
er dry?  sandy  loam. ;  one  that  is  naturally  rich  or  that  has 
been  manured  the  previous  year.  Plant  in  March  or 
April ;  plow  up  the  land  thoroughly  ;  throw  two  furrows 
together  with  a  small  turn  plow,  two  feet  apart ;  re-open 
this  bed  with  a  narrow  scooter  or  bull  tongue.  Having 
first  soaked  the  Chufas  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  hours  in 
water,  drop  two  every  foot  in  the  furrow  and  cover  two 
to  three  inches  deep.  Cultivate  lightly  until  the  plants 
nearly  occupy  the  ground.  Immediately  after  frosts,  the 
nuts  maybe  gathered,  washed,  dried  carefully  and  housed. 
Ammoniated  superphosphate  with  potash  is  a  good  ferti- 
lizer for  this  crop.  The  tops  may  be  cut  and  fed  to  stock 
once  or  twice  during  the  season. 

PEANUTS. 

Also  known  as  Goobers,  Ground  Peas,  Pinders,  etc. 
Soils  naturally  rich  in  lime  suit  the  peanut.  Plant  in 
March  or  April.  Lay  off  rows  three  feet  apart  with  a  small 
turn  plow,  throw  two  furrows  to  the  row,  one  on  each  side  ; 
re-open  with  a  narrow  plow  ;  drop  two  seeds  every  fifteen 
to  eighteen  inches,  cover  two  inches  deep.  Cultivate 
lightly  but  cleanly.  Put  no  earth  on  the  vines.  After 
frost  dig,  wash  and  dry  carefully,  and  house  the  crop. 
Superphosphate  of  lime  is  a  good  fertilizer  for  this  crop. 

CLOVERS. — ( Trifolium. ) 

There  are  several  kinds  of  clover,  some  being  annual, 
while  most  are  perennials.  The  same  preparation  of  the 
soil,  and  the  same  treatment  answers  for  all.  In  sowing 
clover  and  grass  seeds,  it  is  a  good  plaa  to  mix  the  seeds 


28  HOW   TO    PLANT. 

with  ashes  or  dry  earth  before  sowing,  as  this  insures  a 
uniform  distribution  of  the  seeds.  The  land  for  clovers 
should  be  well  pulverized,  especially  on  the  surface  ;  deep 
plowing  is  not  required,  as  the  clovers  like  a  close  sub- 
soil. If  the  soil  is  not  rich,  apply  from  twenty-five  to  one 
hundred  two-horse  wagon  loads  of  horse  or  cow  manure, 
or  two  to  six  hundred  pounds  of  ammoniated  superphos- 
phate per  acre,  as  may  be  convenient ;  harrow  or  plow  in 
lightly. 

KED  CLOVER  OB  KENTUCKY  BED  CLOVER. — The  soil 
being  properly  prepared  sow  ten  pounds  red  clover  per 
acre  broadcast,  cover  with  brush,  then  roll  if  convenient. 
Sow  perennial  clovers  from  September  1st  to  October  15th, 
and  from  February  1st  to  April  1st.  Bed  clover  is  ready 
to  cut  when  most  of  the  blooms  begin  to  turn  brown. 
Select  tenacious  soils  for  clover  ;  sandy  or  light  gray 
soils  are  not  suited  to  these  plants.  They  need  a  clay 
subsoil. 

SAPLIN  CLOVER. — Directions  for  Kentucky  red  clover 
apply  to  this  variety  also. 

WHITE  CLOVER. — Observe  same  directions  as  for  red 
clover,  except  as  to  quantity  of  seed  per  acre.  Three  to 
five  pounds  of  this  kind  per  acre  is  sufficient. 

ALSTKE  CLOVER. — Directions  for  red  clover  are  same 
for  this. 

CRIMSON  ANNUAL  CLOVER. — Sow  from  ten  to  fifteen 
pounds  of  seed  per  acre,  from  August  15th  to  October 
loth  ;  otherwise  observe  same  direction  as  for  red  clover. 

SPOTTED  MEDIC. — California  or  Burr  Clover,  plant  only 
in  early  fall,  from  August  15th  to  October  15th  ;  sow  six- 
teen to  twenty-four  pounds  per  acre  ;  harrow  or  brush  in, 
then  roll  if  convenient.  The  plant  is  an  annual,  and  if 
not  grazed  too  late  it  re-seeds  the  ground  annually — very 
hardy. 


FIELD   CROPS.  29 

LUCERNE  OR  ALFALFA. — A  hardy  perennial,  which  re- 
quires the  same  preparations  as  for  red  clover.  Sow  ten 
to  twelve  pounds  of  seed  per  acre,  in  shallow  drills  about 
twelve  to  fifteen  inches  apart,  either  in  September,  Octo- 
ber or  February  and  March.  Some  April  sowings  have 
done  well.  Keep  clean  of  weeds  and  grass  for  the  first 
summer,  after  which  it  will  take  care  of  itself  ;  cut  as 
soon  as  it  begins  to  bloom,  and  feed  to  cattle  or  horses. 
Repeated  cuttings  may  be  had  during  the  spring  and  sum- 
mer. Lucerne  prefers  a  mellow  soil,  does  not  succeed 
well  on  a  hard  pan  subsoil ;  makes  a  very  rich  hay.  One 
sowing  stands  a  number  of  years,  will  flourish  in  sandy 
soils  and  climates  too  warm  for  clover. 

JAPAN1  CLOVER. — (Lespedeza  striata) — A  spontaneous 
growth  of  some  value  as  a  pasture,  but  not  worth  culti- 
vating where  other  clover  or  grasses  will  grow.  It  pro- 
duces but  few  seeds,  and  we  know  not  how  to  propagate 
it  other  than  to  take  up  the  surface  soil  where  it  has  just 
grown  and  scatter  it  where  the  plant  maybe  wanted.  Da 
this  in  August,  September  or  October.  It  is  an  annual. 
It  rarely  grows  high  enough  to  cut  for  hay. 

There  are  other  varieties  of  clover,  such  as  Bokhara, 
Sweet  Melilot,  Cow-grass,  Yellow  Trefoil,  etc.,  but  they 
are  not  so  valuable  as  the  above.  Sweet  Melilot  may  be 
worth  something  as  a  bee  pasture,  or  as  a  renovator  of  the 
soil,  but  is  not  in  our  opinion,  worth  planting  for  any 
other  purpose. 

GRASS  SEEDS. 

Nearly  every  kind  of  grass  requires  the  same  prepara- 
tion of  the  soil  before  sowing  the  seeds.  The  most  import- 
ant thing  to  do  is,  to  thoroughly  plow  and  finely  pulver- 
ize the  surface  soil.  Deep  plowing  is  not  at  all  necessary. 
Grass  sown  on  cotton  land  through  which  the  sweep  has 
been  run,  frequently  takes  root  as  beautifully  as  upon 
land  with  any  other  preparation.  Break  the  land  and 


30  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

cross  plow  it  with  any  kind  of  plow  that  may  be  found 
convenient.  Apply  the  manure,  or  200  to  400  pounds  of 
ammomated  superphosphate  per  acre  broadcast,  harrow 
thoroughly  several  times,  thus  finely  pulverizing  the  soil ; 
then  sow  the  grass  seed  broadcast,  and  cover  very  lightly 
with  a  brush  or  press  them  into  the  ground  with  a  roller. 

ORCHARD  GRASS. — (Dactylis  glomerata.) 

A  hardy  perennial ;  sow  twenty-eight  to  fortv-two 
pounds  per  acre  broadcast,  in  September,  October,  Feb- 
ruary and  March.  Soil  comparatively  free  from  sand  is 
best ;  makes  fine  pasture,  also  good  hay. 

KED-TOP. — (Agrostis  vulgaris.) 

Called  Herd's  grass  in  Pennsylvania,  while  Timothy  is 
the  Herds  grass  of  New  England.  Sow  seven  to  four- 
teen pounds  per  acre  broadcast,  on  bottom  land  and  damp 
lands,  during  September,  October,  February  and  March, 
for  hay  or  pasture. 

TALL  MEADOW  OAT  GRASS. — (Arrlienatherum  avena- 
ceum.) — Sow  twenty-four  to  thirty-six  pounds  per  acre 
broadcast,  on  any  kind  of  good  rich  land  during  August, 
September  and  October,  very  fine  for  hay  or  pasture. 

KENTUCKY  BLUE  GRASS. — (Poa  pratensis.} — Sow 
twenty-eight  to  forty-two  pounds  per  acre  broadcast  on 
good  close  soils  with  clay  foundation,  during  September 
and  October,  or  February  and  March.  Very  ornamental 
for  yards,  or  lawns,  and  excellent  for  pasture,  a  fine  win- 
ter grass.  English  Blue-grass.  See  Meadow  Fescue. 

TEXAS  BLUE  GRASS. — A  new  candidate,  meeting  with 
considerable  favor  ;  perfectly  hardy,  grows  from  Septem- 
ber to  May,  when  it  seeds  and  dies  down,  to  come  again 
annually.  Propagated  from  seeds  or  plants,  the  latter 
preferred.  Seeds  are  difficult  to  procure  and  are  very 
light  and  troublesome  to  sow.  Sow  the  seed  thinly  on  a 
finely  prepared  rich  bed  during  the  fall,  the  earlier  the 


FIELD   CROPS.  31 

better;  press  in  firmly.  As  the  plants  grow  large  enough, 
draw  them  and  transplant  where  you  wish  tke  grass  to 
remain,  say  in  checks  two  feet  square.  It  spreads  rap- 
idly, hence  will  soon  cover  the  ground.  Sets  should  be 
transplanted  from  September  to  January,  in  hills  two  to 
three  feet  square.  Pasture  it  or  cut  for  hay  as  soon  as 
the  bloom  appears.  No  degree  of  cold  appears  to  injure 
it  at  all.  Sow  twenty  pounds  of  seed  per  acre. 


GRASS.  —  (Sorghum  Halepense.)  —  Some  ad- 
vise the  sowing  of  this  grass  in  August  and  September, 
but  spring  is  beyond  doubt  the  best  time.  Sow  twenty-five 
pounds  per  acre,  during  March,  April  or  May,  broadcast; 
cover  with  the  harrow  or  brush.  It  will  grow  on  any 
kind  of  soil,  and  it  will  never  forsake  you.  Cut  for  hay 
as  soon  as  the  seed  heads  appear  ;  very  nutritious,  peren- 
nial rooted.  When  once  established  there  is  no  way  to 
get  rid  of  it,  but  to  pasture  closely.  Grows  three  to  six 
feet  high. 

BERMUDA  G~RASS.~(Cynodon  Dactylon.)  —  Seeds  are 
very  rarely  to  be  found  so  far,  and  very  difficult  to  procure. 
"When  they  can  be  obtained,  sow  two  to  four  pounds  per 
acre  broadcast  in  May  or  June.  Brush  in  lightly.  The. 
roots  are  safest  to  propagate  from,  and  can  always  be  ob- 
tained. This  grass  spreads  rapidly,  hence  it  may  be 
planted  any  distance  apart  that  one  may  see  proper.  If 
roots  are  plentiful  they  may  be  scattered  broadcast  and 
plowed  in  lightly,  or  the  land  may  be  checked  off,  say  in 
squares  of  three  to  four  feet,  and  a  root  set  in  each  check, 
It  will  soon  take  possession  of  the  ground,  and  comes  to 
stay.  Set  the  plants  or  roots  at  almost  any  season  of  the 
year  when  the  weather  is  not  freezing  or  too  dry.  The 
spring  and  early  summer  months  are  preferable.  It  dies 
down  in  the  winter,  but  comes  again  in  early  spring  and 
laughs  at  a  drouth.  I  think  I  can  safely  say  that  ten 
acres  of  Bermuda  is  of  more  value  for  summer  pasturage 


32  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

than  ten  acres  of  any  other  grass  known  to  the  catalogues. 
It  also  makes  very  fine  hay. 

TIMOTHY. — (Phleum pratense.)— This  well  known  hay 
grass  may  be  sown  in  either  September,  October,  Febru- 
ary or  March,  and  in  some  of  the  Northern  States  in  April. 
Sow  twelve  to  twenty-four  pounds  broadcast  ;  cover  with 
brush  ;  cut  and  cure  when  in  bloom.  Perennial. 

SWEET  SCENTED  VERNAL  GRASS. — (Anthoxanthum 
odoratum.) — Sow  this  mixed  in  with  the  seeds  of  hay 
grasses,  say  one  to  three  pounds  per  acre.  It  gives  the  hay 
a  sweet  smell  and  a  fine  flavor,  hence  the  horses  and  cattle 
will  relish  it.  It  is  to  hay  what  nutmeg  or  lemon  is  to 
some  dishes  that  go  upon  our  tables. 

VELVET  GRASS,  MEADOW  SOFT  GRASS. — (Holcus  la- 
natus.) — Sow  fourteen  to  twenty-one  pounds  per  acre 
broadcast  in  September  or  October,  February,  March  or 
April,  cover  with  brush  ;  good  pasture  or  good  hay. 

CRAB  GRASS. — (Panicum  sanguinale.) — Annual  in- 
troduced grass,  widely  distributed  throughout  the  South- 
ern States.  This  grass  generally  comes  spontaneously 
during  the  month  of  June.  To  obtain  a  good  crop,  plow 
the  land  and  harrow  nicely  about  June  1st ;  it  will  come 
beautifully,  and  be  ready  to  cut  from  August  to  October. 
It  makes  an  excellent  hay,  not  much  inferior  to  timothy. 
Should  the  land  not  bring  this  crop  spontaneously,  pro- 
cure the  seed  in  October  and  sow  June  1st,  two  to  four 
pounds  per  acre  broadcast.  It  will  continue  coming  an- 
nually. 

MEADOW  FESCUE  GRASS. — (Festuca  pmtensis.) 

Called  by  some  English  Blue-grass,  Eandall-grass,  etc. 
Sow  broadcast  one  to  two  bushels  of  seed  per  acre  during 
September,  October,  February  or  March  ;  brush  under ; 
excellent  for  pasture,  or  to  cut  for  hay  when  in  bloom. 


FIELD   CEOPS.  33 

A  mixture  of  grasses  may  be  sown  for  lawns,  pastures, 
or  for  mowing.  Sow  twenty-eight  to  forty-two  pounds  per 
acre  in  September,  October,  February  or  March  ;  cover 
with  brush.  If  for  hay,  cut  when  in  the  bloom  ;  if  for 
ornamental  purposes  keep  it  mowed  as  fast  as  it  becomes 
four  or  five  inches  high.  Use  the  finest  mixtures  if  for 
a  lawn.  Most  seedmen  furnish  these  mixtures. 

There  are  many  other  kinds  of  grass  seeds,  such  as 
Creeping  Bent,  Rhode  Island  Bent,  Hassock,  Wood  Hair, 
Meadow  Foxtail,  Slender  Foxtail,  Reed  Grass,  Yellow  Oat 
Grass,  Soft  Brome,  Meadow  Brome,  Rescue,  Crested  Bog- 
tail,  Lyme,  Hard  Fescue,  Tall  Fescue,  Various-leaved 
Fescue,  Sheeps'  Fescue,  Purple  Fescue,  Slender  Fescue, 
Italian  and  English  Rye  Grasses,  Water  Meadow,  Wood 
Meadow,  Rough-stalked  Meadow,  etc.,  all  which  may  be 
planted  after  the  general  directions  heretofore  given,  and 
out  of  which  farm  lawn  mixtures  may  be  prepared. 

WILD  RYE  GRASS. — This  grass  is  considerably  called 
for,  but  it  is  from  ignorance  of  its  nature.  It  grows 
spontaneously  in  fence  corners  and  such  places.  It  is 
coarse  and  not  worth  cultivating. 

WILD  BICE. — (Zizania  aquatica.) 

Also  called  water  rice.  Sow  the  seed  in  a  pond  or  lake. 
It  is  useful  as  a  food  for  some  species  of  fishes.  The  seeds 
are  also  good  for  fowls  and  birds.  Indians  use  it  as  we  do 
common  rica.  It  seldom  makes  its  appearance  before  the 
second  season  after  being  sown  ;  sow  during  spring. 

STO  FLOWER. — (Helianthus  annuus.) 

Very  careful  preparation  of  the  soil  is  not  necessary  for 
the  sun  flower.  It  grows  freely  on  any  kind  of  upland, 
whether  poor  or  rich  ;  the  richer,  however,  the  better ; 
plow  the  land  thoroughly,  check  off  three  by  four  feet, 
drop  three  or  four  seeds  in  each  check,  cover  one  to  two 


34  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

inches  deep,  thin  out  to  one  or  two  stalks  to  the  hill, 
cultivate  clean  until  blooms  begin  to  appear,  then  let  it 
take  care  of  itself.  Plant  during  March,  April  and  May, 
gather  the  seed  when  ripe.  They  are  fine  food  for  chick- 
ens, horses,  etc.  The  plant  is  said  to  be  an  absorbent  of 
malaria,  and  therefore  healthful  to  cultivate  about  the 
premises.  It  may  be  planted  in  fence  corners,  hedge 
rows,  groups  on  the  lawn  or  almost  anywhere. 

TOBACCO. — (Nicotiana  Tabacum. ) 

Sow  the  seed  in  February  or  March.  A  good  plan  is 
to  burn  a  brush-heap  on  a  piece  of  fresh  land.  This  kills 
weed  seeds  and  furnishes  ashes,  which  is  what  the  tobacco 
needs  ;  after  the  brash-pile  has  burned,  prepare  the  spot 
by  forking  or  digging  up  fine  and  manuring  thoroughly, 
then  sow  the  seed  and  cover  scarcely  at  all  ;  watch  the 
young  plants  that  the  bugs  don't  destroy  them  ;  when 
large  enough  to  handle  transplant  to  rich,  well  prepared 
land  where  you  wish  to  grow  the  crop.  Lay  off  rows  four 
feet  apart,  and  set  out  the  plants  eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  apart  in  the  row.  Tobacco  likes  fresh  land,  and 
likes  manure  or  fertilizer  containing  a  large  per  cent  of 
potash  ;  cultivate  carefully,  keep  clean  of  all  weeds  and 
grass.  Do  not  permit  the  worm  to  destroy  the  crop. 
They  will  be  sure  to  do  this  if  you  fail  to  watch  the 
plants  daily  and  hand-pick  the  worms.  As  soon  as  signs 
of  blooming  appear,  top  the  plants  to  force  the  growth 
into  the  leaf  ;  also  pinch  off  the  branches  that  appear  in 
the  axils  of  the  leaves.  The  stage  at  which  tobacco  should 
be  cut  is  determined  by  the  color  and  feel  of  the  leaf. 
Get  some  practiced  man  to  aid  you  in  this  and  in  curing  it. 

POPPY. — (Papaver  somniferum.) 

This  plant  is  grown  for  the  opium  it  contains.  Sow 
the  seed  in  a  good,  fine,  rich  bed  in  early  fall  ;  transplant 
as  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough,  in  rows  three  by 


FIELD   CEOPS.  35 

three  feet,  or  on  borders,  or  in  groups  as  may  suit  your 
fancy.  There  are  different  colors,  and  the  flowers  are 
very  showy.  The  white  is  best  for  opium. 

VETCH. — (  Vicia  saliva.} 

There  are  several  varieties  of  this  plant,  either  of  them 
more  or  less  useful  as  forage  or  for  pasture.  The  Eng- 
lish Spring  Vetch  should  be  planted  after  frosts  are  over. 
The  English  Winter  Vetch  should  be  planted  in  Au- 
gust, September  or  October,  The  native  or  American 
Vetch  ( Vicia  Americana)  is  by  far  the  best  for  all  pur- 
poses, and  should  be  planted  in  August,  September  and 
October.  This  crop  partakes  somewhat  of  the  nature  of 
the  pea,  and  will  enrich  the  land  upon  which  it  is  planted. 
It  is  also  good  for  hay  and  good  for  pasture.  If  not  pas- 
tured too  late  in.  the  spring  it  will  re-seed  itself,  and 
thereby  continue  coming  year  after  year.  It  is  a  good 
substitute  for  clover  and  will  grow  luxuriantly  on  sandy 
lands  and  in  southern  climates  where  clover  will  not  suc- 
ceed. Sow  broadcast,  one  peck  per  acre,  on  well  prepared 
land,  and  cover  half  to  one  inch  deep.  It  luxuriates  on 
the  sandy  soils  of  the  sea  coast  also. 

HOP  SEED. — (Humulus  Lupulus.) 

Plant  in  March  or  April,  in  cold  frames  in  the  most 
careful  manner,  and  in  only  very  finely  pulverized  soil, 
barely  covered  and  slightly  pressed  down  ;  when  plants  are 
sufficiently  large,  transplant  to  permanent  ground.  Cut- 
tings are  preferable  to  seeds.  Plant  say  four  by  six  feet 
in  checks  ;  arrange  poles  or  trellis  for  them  to  climb  on. 

PKICKLY  COMFKEY. — (Symphytum  asperrimum.) 

Procure  the  roots  during  November,  December,  or 
January ;  prepare  very  rich  land  by  plowing  or  forking 
up  thoroughly  six  to  twelve  inches  deep.  Plant  a  piece 
of  the  root  in  four  feet  checks  ;  cover  two  or  three  inches 
deep.  The  roots  may  be  cut  into  pieces  half  an  inch  to 


36 


HOW   TO    PLANT. 


one  inch  long.  Plant  during  late  fall  or  early  winter.  It  is 
among  the  first  green  feeds  to  appear  toward  spring,  a  fine 
food  for  milch  cows,  produces  enormously  under  favor- 
able conditions.  The  plant  is  not  in  general  cultivation, 
it  is  generally  conceded  that  it  should  not  be  allowed  to 
produce  seed. 


GARDEN   OK  VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  37 

GARDEN  OR  VEGETABLE  SEEDS. 

ARTICHOKE — GLOBE. — (Cynaro,  Scolymus. ) 

This  is  the  true  Artichoke,  and  often  called  the  Bui- 
Artichoke  to  distinguish  it  from  the  Jerusalem  Arti- 
choke. There  are  two  varieties,  viz. :  Large  Green  Globe 
and  Large  Paris.  The  Large  Globe  is  best  for  general 
culture.  Sow  the  seed  in  April  in  rich  soil,  transplant 
the  following  spring  to  permanent  beds  in  hills  two  by 
three  feet.  The  plant  is  perennial  and  will  last  for  years 
if  protected  in  the  winter  by  a  covering  of  leaves  or 
coarse  manure.  The  part  used  is  the  pulpy  receptacle 
in  the  flower  heads,  termed  the  "  bottom,"  freed  from 
the  bristles,  or  seed  down,  and  the  lower  portions  of  the 
scales  which  surround  the  head.  Boil  and  dress  with 
butter,  salt  and  pepper,  and  it  is  very  nice. 

ASPARAGUS. — (Asparagus  officinalis. ) 

Plant  the  seed  in  early  spring,  soaking  it  in  water 
twenty-four  hours  before  planting.  Drill  thinly  in  rows 
twelve  inches  apart,  in  rich,  mellow  soil,  well  drained  ; 
cover  abOjUt  one  inch  deep  ;  thin  out  three  or  four  inches 
apart,  and  cultivate  well.  When  plants  are  one  or  two 
years  old,  transplant  to  permanent  grounds  in  rows  three 
feet  apart,  and  two  feet  apart  in  the  row,  and  six  inches 
beneath  the  surface  ;  strong,  loamy  land  is  the  best.  Be 
sure  to  make  the  land  very  rich  with  well-rotted  lot  man- 
ure, and  manure  the  surface  of  the  bed  freely  every  fall. 
An  application  of  salt  every  fall  as  a  top  dressing  is 
necessary  ;  cover  the  bed  say  one-quarter  to  one-half  inch 
with  the  salt.  The  old  idea  of  making  a  rock  bottom 
bed  for  this  vegetable  was  a  great  mistake,  and  required 
immense  labor  for  nothing.  Plants  may  be  procured 
from  seedsmen  and  nurserymen,  and  planted  out  at  once, 
thus  avoiding  the  slow  process  of  obtaining  them  from 
seeds. 


38 


HOW   TO   PLANT. 


Small  beds  may  be  established  in  the  garden  in  a  con- 
venient manner  about  as  follows  :  After  forking  in  about 
six  inches  of  well-rotted  lot  manure,  open  out  three  fur- 
rows, eighteen  inches  apart,  any  desired  length.  Plant 
one  root  every  eighteen  inches  in  the  furrows,  and  cover 
the  crown  six  inches  deep.  The  sprouts  are  cut  just  below 
the  surface  when  young  and  tender.  When  boiled  and  but- 
tered, and  peppered,  it  is  perfectly  delicious,  surpassing 
the  English  pea.  No  one  should  be  without  an  asparagus 
bed.  Transplant  in  November,  December,  and  January, 
the  earlier  the  better.  This  is  a  profitable  market  crop. 
The  plant  is  perennial. 

BEETS. — (Beta  vulgaris.) 

Beets  require  rich  soil,  mellow  and  deeply  broken,  but 
never  use  green  manure.  Lay  off 
row's  three  feet  apart,  one  to  two 
inches  deep.  Soak  the  seed  twen- 
ty-four to  thirty-six  hours  in  wa- 
ter ;  drop  them  so  as  to  average 
one  to  every  inch  ;  cover  about  one 
inch  deep;  when  up,  thj^  to  one 
plant  every  six  to  eight  inches  ; 
cultivate  clean  and  well.  Some 
check  the  land  off  eight  inches 
square,  drop  two  seed  in  each 
check,  thin  to  one  plant,  etc.  Plant 
from  February  14th  to  May,  and 
again  in  August. 


TURNIP  BEET. 


BROCCOLI. — (Brassica  oleracea,  VAR.) 

Sow  in  seed  bed  the  middle  of  spring ;  when  plants  are 
eight  to  twelve  inches  high,  transplant  to  open  ground 
in  rows  four  feet  apart,  and  setting  the  plants  two  feet 
apart  in  the  row.  Cultivate  clean  and  well ;  use  when 
the  head  forms.  Plants  may  be  left  out  during  winter 


GARDEN   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  39 

to  head  in  the  spring.     Use  same  as  cabbage.    Plant  also 
in  September  for  late  use. 

BRUSSELS  SPROUTS. — (Brctssica  oleracect,  YAR.  ) 

Follow  same  directions  as  for  broccoli.  The  small 
heads  produced  upon  the  stalk  are  the  eatable  portion. 
When  these  are  well  developed  they  are  cooked  like  larger 
cabbages. 

BEANS,  SNAP  SHORTS. — (Pliaseolus  vulgaris,  VAR.) 

Bunch  or  Bush  beans.  Commence  planting  the  middle 
of  February  and  make  successive  plantings  until  August. 
On  rich  soil,  lay  off  rows  three  feet  apart,  four  inches 
deep,  in  which  drop  the  beans  so  as  to  average  one  every 
inch ;  cover  two  or  three  inches  deep  ;  cultivate  clean, 
but  not  when  the  plants  are  wet.  The  pods  are  used 
while  still  tender. 

POLE  OR  RUNNING  BEANS,  SNAP  SHORTS. — Plant  from 
May  first  to  July  fifteenth,  on  thoroughly  plowed  and 
harrowed  land,  in  hills  four  feet  apart,  five  or  six  beans 
dropped  in  a  circular  drill  in  each  hill.  Cover  two  to 
three  inches  deep.  Place  good  poles,  eight  feet  high,  in 
the  middle  of  each  hill  for  the  beans  to  run  on.  Also 
plant  amongst  Indian  corn  ;  the  corn  stalks  answer  for 
poles. 

WHITE  BEANS  FOR  WINTER  USE. — The  best  of  these 
are  the  Royal  Dwarf,  White  Marrow,  the  Tree,  Navy  and 
the  White  Kidney.  Plant  the  latter  part  of  May  and 
through  June,  in  rows  three  feet  apart  and  six  inches 
apart  in  the  drill.  Drop  two  to  three  beans  in  a  hill, 
cover  about  two  inches  deep.  Ashes  and  ground  bone, 
or  acid  phosphate,  mixed,  are  good  fertilzers  for  beans. 
Gather  the  beans  after  the  pods  are  ripe  and  put  away  for 
winter. 

LIMA  OR  BUTTER  BEAN. — (Phaseolus  lunatus.) 
Also  the  Carolina  or  Sieva  bean,  Scarlet  Runners,  &c. 
Plant  on  good,  rich,  mellow,  well-drained  land,  but  not 


40  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

what  is  called  "  thirsty"  land.  Do  not  plant  in  cold  ground 
as  the  beans  will  rot.  Plant  after  the  weather  gets  warm, 
say  from  May  tenth  to  the  middle  of  June.  Manure  with 
ashes,  bone  dust,  and  well  rotted  lot  manure.  Check  oif 
the  land  four  feet  square  ;  in  each  check  make  a  circular 
furrow  about  two  inches  deep,  drop  five  or  six  beans  in 
this  circle,  with  the  hand  turn  the  bean's  eye  down,  and 
press  lightly  into  the  soil  and  cover.  In  the  center  of 
this  circle  place  a  pole,  eight  feet  high,  on  which  the 
beans  will  run. 

Some  plant  in  a  continuous  row  to  run  on  a  trellis,  but 
they  do  not  bear  so  well  as  when  in  hills  and  on  poles. 

ENGLISH  DWARF  BEANS. — (Vicia  Faba.) 

Broad  Windsor  is  the  best  variety.  Plant  in  September 
and  October.  Check  off  land  two  feet  square,  drop  two 
beans  in  each  hill ;  cover  two  inches  deep.  Requires  rich 
land.  Shell  and  cook  while  green  in  same  manner  as 
Lima  or  Butter  beans.  Requires  no  poles. 

JACK  BEAN. 

This  is  a  great  runner  and  very  ornamental.  Plant 
during  April  and  May  to  run  on  arbors,  front  verandas, 
etc.,  for  shade,  from  spring  until  frosts.  There  are  two 
varieties,  the  purple  and  white  bloom.  They  make  a 
pretty  and  luxuriant  shade. 

CABBAGE. — (Brassica  oleracea.) 

This  is  doubtless  the  most  universally  popular  vegeta- 
ble known  to  the  catalogue,  yet  there  are  more  failures 
in  its  cultivation  than  with  anything  else.  The  failure 
is  generally  attributed  to  the  climate,  season,  and  seeds, ' 
while  in  fact  it  is  nine  times  out  of  ten  due  to  want  of 
proper  preparation  and  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  lack  of 
proper  culture. 

Sow  the  seeds  of  the  early  varieties  in  September,  Octo- 
ber, November,  December  or  January.  Transplant  to 


GARDEN   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  41 

permanent  grounds  as  soon  as  large  and  stout  enough. 
They  will  head  in  May  and  June.  Plant  the  earliest 
varieties  two  feet  apart  each  way  ;  the  second  early  or 
medium,  three  feet,  the  late  varieties  four  feet  apart. 
Sow  the  seed  moderately  thick,  in  drills  half  an  inch 
deep  and  eighteen  inches  apart.  Late  varieties  should  be 
sown  in  May,  transplanted  in  July,  to  head  up  during 
the  fall  for  winter  use. 

Select  none  but  the  richest  soil,  or  make  it  absolutely 
rich,  or  you  had  better  not  undertake  to  grow  the  cab- 
bage. One  hundred  two-horse  wagon  loads  of  good 
stable  manure,  or  125  loads  of  cow  lot  manure,  is  a  very 
light  application  per  acre  for  cabbages  ;  never  use  less 
than  this,  and  run  it  up  to  400  loads  if  practicable,  or  in 
lieu  thereof  2000  pounds  of  ammoniated  superphosphate 
of  lime  per  acre.  Plow  in  thoroughly  and  deeply  ;  plow 
and  cross  plow  and  harrow  until  the  soil  is  thoroughly 
pulverized ;  plow  as  near  eighteen  inches  deep  as  pos- 
sible. The  cabbage  must  have  moisture,  and  deep  plow- 
ing will  give  it  to  ypu  and  retain  it. 

It  is  useless  to  plant  more  than  four  varieties.  You 
will  find  twenty  to  thirty  varieties  named  in  the  cata- 
logues, but  three  or  four  will  comprehend  every  class. 
Select  one  of  the  earliest,  one  second  early  or  summer, 
one  late  or  winter,  and  one  of  the  Savoys.  This  crop  is 
profitable  when  properly  managed  ;  cultivate  frequently 
and  always  shallow,  and  keep  scrupulously  clean  until 
the  heads  begin  to -appear — unless  the  plants  lap  between 
the  rows  sooner. 

Perhaps  the  best  way  to  plant  the  seed  is  in  a  cold 
frame  under  glass.  This  protects  the  young  plants  from 
severe  cold  during  winter,  as  well  as  from  the  destructive 
insects  of  spring  or  summer.  Always  in  transplanting, 
set  the  young  plants  down  to  the  leaves,  no  matter  how 
long  the  shank. 


42  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

COLLAED. — (Brassioa  oleracea,  VAE.) 

Plant  the  seeds  in  open  ground  in  the  spring  or  early 
summer,  in  June  or  July ;  some  plant  in  May.  Sow 
thickly  in  drills  two  feet  apart  in  moderately  rich  soil. 
As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough,  transplant  into 
rich  ground,  three  by  four  feet.  Keep  clean  by  cultiva- 
tion. Before  freezing  weather  comes,  pull  up  the  col- 
lards,  root  and  all,  and  heel  in  in  trenches,  laying  them  as 
close  together  as  possible,  with  heads  inclining  on  the 
ground  toward  the  south,  and  shelter  in  some  rough  man- 
ner. Pine  tops  are  used  by  many  for  this  purpose.  Dur- 
ing the  winter  boil  them  with  bacon,  corn  beef,  or 
alone,  and  dress  with  butter,  etc.  They  are  superior  in 
flavor  to  cabbage,  although  they  do  not  produce  hard 
heads.  They  will  blanch  beautifully  when  covered  with 
straw  and  earth. 

CAEDOOH. — (Cynara  Cardunculus.) 

Sow  early  in  the  spring  where  the  crop  is  to  remain, 
in  drills  three  feet  apart,  an  inch  ancfr  a  half  deep.  When 
up,  thin  out  the  plants  to  a  foot  apart  in  the  drills. 
Keep  properly  worked.  The  soil  should  be  good.  The 
midrib  of  the  leaf  is  used,  which  requires  to  be  blanched 
in  same  manner  as  celery. 

CAEEOT. — (Daucus  Carota.) 

A  rich,  sandy  loam  is  best.  Sow  in  the  spring  as  soon 
as  the  frosts  are  over.  Lay  off  rows  fifteen  to  twenty- 
four  inches  apart  and  about  one  inch  deep,  in  which  sow 
the  seed  thinly  ;  cover  about  half  an  inch  deep.  At  first 
working,  thin  out  to  three  or  four  inches  apart,  work 
deeply  and  carefully  until  the  plants  have  about  made 
their  growth.  In  Georgia  and  other  States  not  colder 
than  this,  the  roots  may  remain  out  in  the  open  ground 
and  will  keep  sound  all  the  winter.  Begin  to  use  them 
in  "December  when  other  vegetables  are  scarce. 


GARDEN   OR    VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  4*3 

CAULIFLOWER. — (Brassica  oleracea,  VAR.) 

See  cabbage  and  follow  the  same  directions  there  given, 
except  that  in  the  Southern  States  it  is  useless  to  plant 
any  in  the  spring.    Plant  in  cold  frame  in  fall  and  trans- 
plant, setting  deeply,  in  December  or  January. 
CELERY. — (Apium  graveolens.) 

Select  a  moist,  but  not  wet,  sandy  loam,  very  rich,  or 
make  it  rich  ;  let  it  be  as  convenient  to  water  as  possible. 


WHITE  PLUME   CELERY. 


HALF  DWARF   CELERY. 


Sow  the  seed  in  April  or  May  in  open  ground.  Cut  off 
the  tops  of  the  plants  once  or  twice  before  transplanting, 
so  as  to  make  them  stocky.  Transplant  in  June  or  July. 
Mark  off  rows  three  feet  apart,  and  set  the  plants  six  inches 
apart  in  the  row,  being  careful  to  press  the  earth  firmly 
about  the  roots.  Nothing  further  need  be  done  but  to 
keep  down  weeds  and  grass  until  six  or  seven  weeks,  then 
begin  the  earthing  up,  which  is  necessary  for  the  branch- 


44  HOW  TO   PLAINT. 

ing  of  that  which  is  wanted  for  use.  The  first  operation 
is  that  of  "  handling,"  i.  e.  after  the  soil  has  been  drawn 
up  to  the  plant  with  the  hoe,  then  with  the  hands  fur- 
ther draw  it  close  around  each  plant,  so  as  to  keep  the 
leaves  in  an  upright  position.  As  the  frosts  of  fall  draw 
near,  take  the  spade  and  bank  the  soil  up  to  the  plants, 
clear  to  the  top  on  each  side.  Rows  might  do  better  four 
feet  apart  for  very  large  growing  varieties,  Water  the 
plants  if  the  weather  becomes  too  dry  ;  when  blanched  it 
is  ready  to  eat.  In  very  cold  weather,  it  maybe  dug  and 
banked  in  some  protected  and  convenient  place. 

CELERIAC. 

A  turnip-rooted  variety  of  celery  of  much  easier  growth 
than  ordinary  celery.  Sow  seeds  in  early  spring  in  shal- 
low drills  eighteen  inches  apart;  cover  with  fine  earth 
one-half  inch  deep.  Thin  out  to  three  or  four  inches 
apart  ;  keep  clean  by  cultivation  until  roots  are  pretty 
well  developed.  It  may  be  cooked  and  sliced,  and  used 
with  vinegar,  making  a  most  excellent  salad. 

CHERVIL.  —  (Anthriscus  cerefolium.  ) 

Sow  thinly  in  May,  in  drills  half  an  inch  deep  and  fif- 
teen inches  apart.  A  sowing  might  be  risked  in  March  or 
April.  This  is  an  aromatic  sweet  herb  ;  the  young  leaves 
are  used  in  soups  and  salads. 

CORIST  SALAD.  —  (Valerianella  olitoria.) 

A  vegetable  used  as  a  salad,  very  hardy  ;  sow  in  Sep- 
tember, and  treat  about  as  turnips. 

CRESS,  OR  PEPPER  GRASS.—  (Ze^Wmw  sativum.) 


Sow  in  drills  thickly,  and  barely  cover.  Have  drills 
twelve  to  eighteen  inches  apart.  Sow  at  intervals  of  two 
weeks,  beginning  March  first.  This  is  an  agreeable,  pun- 
gent salad.  Sow  also  in  September. 


GARDEN"    OR    VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  45 

WATER  CRESS. — (Nasturtium  officinale.) 
A  hardy,  perennial,  aquatic  plant.  Has  a  pleasant  pun- 
gent taste  and  is  an  excellent  salad.  Plant  along  the 
margin  of  running  streams,  ponds  and  ditches.  Sow  the 
seed  in  September  or  in  March  and  April,  and  cover  in 
the  lightest  manner  ;  it  takes  care  of  itself  afterward. 

CUCUMBER. — (Cucumis  sativus.) 

The  soil  best  suited  to  the  cucumber  is  a  warm,  sandy, 
rich  loam,  though  it  will  grow  on  any  soil  if  the  prepara- 
tion is  proper  and  the  season  propitious.  Plant  the  seed 
after  all  danger  of  frost  is  over,  and  the  spring  settles 
down  warm.  Deep  and  thorough  preparation  of  the  soil 
is  necessary.  Make  hills  four  feet  apart  each  way,  add  a 
shovel  or  so  of  well  rotted  stable  manure  to  each  hill  and 
mix  it  well  with  the  soil.  Drop  five  or  six  seeds  in  each 
hill,  cover  half  an  inch  to  an  inch  deep,  press  the  soil  on 
the  seed  lightly.  After  the  plants  get  strong,  thin  out 
to  tAvo  or  three  in  a  hill.  Keep  the  crop  clear  of  weeds 
and  grass  until  the  vines  begin  to  run  freely.  Gather  the 
cucumbers  as  fast  as  they  become  large  enough  to  use,  or 
the  vines  will  not  continue  to  bear  well. 

Cucumbers  may  also  be  planted  around  a  barrel  of 
water.  The  most  prolific  crop  I  ever  saw  was  produced 
from  seeds  sown  in  a  continuous  drill,  the  plants  left 
standing  three  or  four  inches  apart  in  the  drill. 

DANDELION. — ( Taraxacum  Dens-leonis. ) 
Sow  the  seeds  in  April  or  May,  in  drills  twelve  inches 
apart ;  cover  half  inch  deep.     Rich  and  finely  pulverized 
soil  is  necessary.     Blanch  the  leaves  and  use  for  salad. 

EGG  PLANT. — (Solanum  Melon  gena.) 

Plant  the  seeds  in  hot-bed,  under  glass,  in  February  or 
early  March.  Harden  or  toughen  the  plants  as  much  as 
possible  by  transplanting,  and  opening  the  hot-bed  every 
fair  day  when  not  too  cold.  About  the  fifteenth  of  May 


46  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

to  June  first,  when  the  plants  become  stout,  transplant 
into  the  open  ground,  four  feet  apart  each  way,  on  rich 
soil.  Cultivate  well  and  they  will  afford  plenty  of  fruit, 
surpassing  the  squash,  until  frost. 

ENDIVE. — ( CicJiorium  Endivia. ) 

Sow  about  last  of  March  for  spring  and  summer  use, 
and  in  July  and  August  for  fall  and  winter  use.  Lay  off 
shallow  drills  twelve  or  more  inches  apart  in  rich,  mellow 
soil,  in  which  drill  the  seed  thinly  ;  cover  very  light. 
Thin  out  to  four  inches  ;  cultivate  well.  Blanch  tho 
leaves  by  tying  up  in  a  conical  form  or  by  covering  with 
slats  or  sticks.  Use  as  salad. 

GAELIC. — (Allium  sativum.) 

Select  light  but  rich  soil ;  prepare  finely.  Early  in 
March  lay  off  rows  twelve  inches  apart,  in  which  drop 
the  sets,  two  or  three  inches  apart,  and  place  upright 
with  the  hand.  Cultivate  well.  Used  for  flavoring  soups, 
stews,  etc.  When  ripe,  harvest  the  same  as  onions. 
KALE,  OR  BORECOLE. — (Brassico,  oleracea,  VAR.) 

Kale  luxuriates  in  any  rich  soil.  It  is  the  richest  and 
most  delicate  of  any  of  the  cabbage  family,  and  the  greens 
may  be  eaten  by  those  who  dare  not  touch  cabbage.  In 
the  Northern  states  plant  in  April  and  May.  In  the 
Southern  States  plant  also  in  spring  ;  but  fall  planting  is 
more  desirable,  as  it  is  during  winter  and  spring  that  greens 
are  mostly  sought  after,  and  the  varieties  of  kale  being 
perfectly  hardy,  make  one  of  the  most  reliable  sources 
for  this  much  desired  and  delicious  dish.  Fall  planting 
should  be  done  in  August  and  early  September.  Drill 
the  seeds  thinly  in  shallow  rows,  and  cover  about  half  an 
inch  deep  ;  have  the  rows  three  feet  apart.  Thin  out  to 
fifteen  to  twenty  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  extend 
your  crop  with  the  thinned  plants.  Cultivate  well.  The 
greens  are  better  after  frost  falls  on  them.  There  are 
several  varieties,  all  of  which  are  good. 


GARDEN   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  4? 

KOHLRABI. — (Brassica  oleracea,  VAR.) 
This  is  also  known  as  the  Turnip  Eooted  Cabbage. 
Sow  any  time  from  March  to  September,  thinly,  in  rows 
two  feet  apart ;  cover  half  inch  deep.  When  up,  thin  out 
to  six  or  eight  inches  apart.  Boil  and  slice,  and  eat  with 
butter,  pepper  and  salt. 

LEEK. — (Allium  Porrum.) 

Sow  the  seeds  in  February,  March  and  April,  in  very 
rich,  mellow  soil,  in  rows  fifteen  inches  apart ;  cover 
about  one  inch  deep.  When  seven  or  eight  inches  high, 
transplant  in  rows  two  feet  apart,  and  six  inches  apart  in 
the  rows.  Plant  as  deep  as  possible,  so  as  to  blanch  them. 
The  leek  is  eaten  like  the  onion,  it  being  sweeter  and 
more  delicate.  Plant  also  in  September. 

LETTUCE. — (Lactnca  saliva. ) 

A  well-known  green  salad,  and  relished  by  everybody. 
It  is  of  easy  culture,  but  requires  rich  coil  to  force  its 
growth,  so  that  the  cuttings  may  be  crisp  and  tender. 
Plant  seeds  in  shallow  drills,  fifteen  inches  apart ;  cover 
half  an  inch  deep  ;  when  up,  thin  out  to  six  inches  apart. 
It  may  be  easily  transplanted  whenever  necessary.  In 
the  Southern  States,  sow  either  in  March  or  April,  or  in 
August  and  September.  A  little  straw  or  brush  around 
the  plants  will  protect  them  in  winter.  Sow  in  cold 
frames  at  any  other  time  you  may  desire  during  the  win- 
ter. In  the  Northern.  States,  protect  the  plants  under 
glass  until  cold  weather  ceases. 

MARTYSTIA. — (Martynia  proboscidea. ) 
The  fruit  is  used  for  pickles  while  young  and  tender. 
Sow  in  drills  in  April  or  May  ;  cover  very  lightly.    When 
plants  are  large  enough,  transplant  two  feet  apart  each 
way. 

MUSHROOMS. — (Ayaricus  campestris. ) 

The  chief  conditions  to  obtain  a  satisfactory  result  in 
growing  mushrooms,  is  a  rich  soil  under  a  genial  temper- 


48  HOW  TO    PLANT. 

ature.  To  secure  the  latter,  the  culture  is  often  carried 
on  in  cellars ;  but  any  locality,  such  as  frames,  out- 
houses, etc.,  will  do,  provided  the  temperature  does  not 
exceed  eighty  degrees,  or  fall  lower  than  fifty.  They  can 
be  grown  in  barrels  sawn  in  two  to  form,  tubs,  or  upon 
the  floor.  Obtain  good  garden  mould,  and  mix  one 
bushel  of  soil  to  two  bushels  of  horse  dung,  as  free  from 
straw  as  possible,  and  fill  up  the  tubs  solid  with  the 
mixture  ;  or  lay  down  a  bed  three  or  four  feet  wide  and 
twelve  inches  thick,  and  press  it  solid  with  the  spade. 
As  it  will  likely  get  too  hot,  it  is  best  to  let  the  heat  re- 
cede until  it  is  not  over  ninety  degrees,  then  insert  small 
pieces  of  spawn,  lumps  two  inches  through,  in  holes  twelve 
inches  apart,  and  cover  firmly  over.  Let  the  bed  remain 
in  this  condition  twelve  or  fifteen  days,  then  cover  with 
an  inch  or  more  of  good  garden  mould,  which  can  be 
slightly  moistened.  If  the  bed  is  exposed,  and  subject  to 
great  changes  in  temperature,  it  is  best  to  cover  it  with 
about  four  inches  of  hay  or  straw.  In  six  or  ten  weeks, 
according  to  the  temperature,  the  mushrooms  will  appear. 
In  gathering  them,  care  should  be  taken  to  fill  up  the 
holes  with  soil.  The  bed  should  bear  two  months.  An 
occasional  watering  with  warm  water  about  seventy-five 
degrees  is  beneficial,  with  a  little  fertilizer  or  manure 
water  added  with  salt.  One  pound  of  spawn  is  enough 
L-or  a  bed  three  feet  by  four.  Beware  of  the  poisonous 
ones  in  gathering  wild  mushrooms. 

MUSTARD. — (Brassica  alba  and  B.  nigra.) 

One  of  the  best  of  salads  and  useful  medicinally ;  sow 
the  black  mustard  if  seeds  are  wanted  for  medicine.  The 
White,  the  Creole  and  the  Southern  Giant  Curled,  are 
the  best  for  greens,  and  the  last  named  is  the  best  of 
these  three.  In  the  North,  sow  in  the  spring  as  soon  as 
frosts  are  over.  In  the  South,  sow  in  March  or  April, 
and  in  August  and  September,  either  broadcast  or  in 


GARDEN   OB  VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  49 

drills  fifteen  inches  to  two  feet  apart.  If  it  be  desired  to 
make  seed,  thin  out  to  one  foot  apart  in  the  row  and 
cultivate.  The  young  leaves  make  healthful  and  palata- 
ble greens. 

NASTURTIUM. — (Tropceolum  minus  and  T.  majus.) 

Plant  in  May  ;  lay  off  rows  two  feet  apart,  one  inch 
deep  in  which  drop  the  seed  about  one  to  two  inches 
apart ;  cover  lightly,  keep  clean.  Gather  the  seed  pods 
while  young  and  succulent,  and  pickle  and  iise  as  capers. 
Very  pretty  bloomer.  The  tall  kind  should  be  provided 
with  brush  or  other  support  to  climb  upon. 
OKRA. — (Hibiscus  esculentus. ) 

This  is  one  of  the  finest,  most  nutritious  and  health- 
ful of  all  vegetables ;  strictly  a  southern  plant ;  easily 
grown  on  any  kind  of  soil.  Plant  in  April  or  May.  Lay 
off  rows  four  feet  apart,  two  inches  deep.  Soak  the  seed 
in  sweet  milk  or  water  twenty-four  hours  ;  drop  three  or 
four  in  a  hill,  three  feet  apart.  When  up,  thin  to  one 
plant  to  a  hill ;  cultivate  nicely.  The  pods  are  used 
when  young  and  tender  for  thickening  soups,  etc.  They 
are  also  delicious  when  boiled  and  seasoned  with  butter, 
pepper  and  salt,  or  boiled  and  then  fried  brown  in  sweet 
fat.  The  pods  are  also  cut  and  dried,  and  used  during 
the  winter  for  soups.  Okra  and  tomatoes  make  beyond 
all  question  the  finest  vegetable  soup  known  to  the  cook 
book.  There  ought  to  be  a  great  demand  for  dried  Okra 
in  sections  where  it  cannot  be  grown. 

ONION. — (Allium  Cepa.) 

There  need  be  no  more  difficulty  in  making  a  crop  of 
onions  than  a  crop  of  potatoes.  I  will,  however,  notify 
you  in  advance  that  your  ground  must  be  rich.  Manure 
without  stint.  Apply  from  twenty-five  to  one  hundred 
two-horse  wagon  loads  of  stable  manure,  or  1000  to  2000 
pounds  of  ammoniated  superphosphate  per  acre.  The 
land  should  be  deeply  and  finely  plowed.  It  is  well  to 


50  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

do  this  in  the  fall,  and  throw  the  land  up  in  ridges  so 
that  it  may  be  subjected  to  freezing  in  winter,  thereby 
becoming  thoroughly  pulverized.  In  the  Southern  States 
planting  may  be  done  either  in  August  and  September, 
or  in  February  and  March.  In  the  North,  plant  only  in 
early  spring  after  frosts  are  over. 

Level  and  smooth  the  land  over  nicely  and  roll  it.  Lay 
off  rows  half-inch  deep,  eighteen  inches  apart,  in  which 
sow  the  seeds  thinly,  about  four  pounds  per  acre  ;  cover 
one-half  inch  deep,  press  down  firmly  or  roll  lightly. 
When  the  plants  are  well  up,  thin  out  three  to  five 
inches  apart ;  keep  cleanly  hoed,  but  throw  no  earth  to 
the  plants.  Fine  onions  may  be  made  as  above  from  the 
seeds.  If  the  object  be  to  grow  sets,  then  select  rather 
thin  soil,  as  free  from  grass  and  weed  seeds  as  possible. 
Use  ammoniated  superphosphates,  about  600  pounds  per 
acre  ;  stable  manure  contains  too  many  seeds  of  grass  and 
foul  weeds.  Sow  seeds  about  June  first,  thickly  in  drills, 
ten  to  twelve  inches  apart,  or  broadcast,  as  may  suit  your 
convenience.  In  this  way  small  onions  are  produced, 
called  "  sets,"  which  when  transplanted,  produce  a  large 
onion. 

SETS  OR  BUTTONS. — When  planting  Sets  and  Buttons, 
prepare  the  land  the  same  as  for  seeds.  Check  off  the 
land  eighteen  inches  one  way,  and  six  inches  the  other 
way  ;  drop  one  set  in  each  check,  place  upright,  and 
lightly  press  into  the  soil ;  five  to  ten  bushels  will  plant 
an  acre.  Afterward  keep  clean  ;  throw  no  earth  to  the 
rows.  Plant  same  time  as  seeds.  Sets  make  a  crop  of 
large  onions  very  quick. 

PARSLEY. — (Petroselinum  sativuin. ) 

Sow  thicky  in  drills  twelve  inches  apart,  in  March, 
April  or  May  and  September ;  first  soak  the  seed  over 
night  in  warm  water  ;  for  winter  use  sow  under  glass  dur- 
ing September  ;  cover  half  inch  deep.  Used  for  garnish- 
ing, seasoning,  etc. 


GARDEN   OR  VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  51 

PARSNIP. — (Pastinaca  saliva. ) 

Sow  during  February  and  March  in  mellow,  rich  soil, 
in  drills  fifteen  or  eighteen  inches  apart,  cover  about  half 
an  inch,  when  up,  thin  to  two  to  three 
inches  apart.  They  will  remain  sound 
in  the  ground  all  winter ;  good  for  the 
table,  or  for  milch  cows,  b'our  pounds 
of  seed  will  plant  an  acre. 

PEAS — ENGLISH. — (Pisum  sativum. ) 

The  English  or  garden  pea  requires 
soil  made  rich  the  previous  year,  or  the 
use  of  only  thoroughly  decomposed  lot 
manure  or  ammoniated  superphos- 
phate. They  will  grow  freely  planted 
almost  any  Avay,  and  must  be  planted 
early  so  as  to  be  ready  before  hot,  dry 
weather,  as  they  will  not  stand  the 
heat.  One  of  the  best  ways  to  plant 
is  to  lay  off  double  rows  just  near 
enough  together  so  the  opening  of  one 
row  does  not  fill  up  the  other.  If  the 
bottom  of  the  furrow  could  be  broad 
and  flat,  it  wonld  be  better,  but  not 
essential.  Three  to  four  feet  from 
this  first  double  row  make  another 
double  row,  and  so  on.  In  these  double 
rows  drill  the  seed  thickly  so  as  to 
average  one  seed  every  quarter  of  an 
inch  ;  cover  the  seed  three  to  four  inches  deep  ;  stake  the 
running  varieties.  In  Southern  States  plant  from  the 
middle  of  January  to  the  middle  of  April  and  in  Sep- 
tember. In  the  Northern  States  plant  in  February, 
March  and  April,  and  in  August. 

JAPAN  PEAS. — Plant  in  April  or  May  in  rows  three 
feet  wide  and  two  feet  apart  in  rows.     Good  for  stock. 


52  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

Coucn  PEAS. — Plant  in  May  in  hills  two  feet  by  six 
feet,  three  or  four  peas  to  the  hill.  Cover  about  two  inches, 
cultivate  until  vines  cover  the  ground  ;  good  for  shading 
and  enriching  the  soil.  Not  much  can  be  expected  in 
the  way  of  a  crop  from  them  ;  they  scarcely  yield  any 
peas  in  this  state. 

PEPPER. — (Capsicum  annuum.) 

Start  the  plants  early  by  sowing  seeds  in  a  hot  bed  the 
latter  part  of  February,  or  early  in  March.  As  soon  as 


GOLDEN  DAWN   PEPPER. 

the  weather  becomes  perfectly  warm,  transplant  to  eight- 
een inches  to  two  feet  square  in  rich  mellow  soil.  The 
pods  are  used  for  pickling  and  for  seasoning. 

POTATO — IRISH. — (Solatium  tuberosum.) 
Plant  in  February  or  March  in  any  naturally  good  soil, 
but  a  sandy  loam  is  decidedly  best.     Use  no  fresh  ma- 
nure :  very  old  thoroughly  decayed  manure  will  do.     A 
compost  made  of  land  plaster,  bone  dust,  ashes  and  leaf 


GARDEN   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  53 

mold  is  perhaps  the  best  fertilizer  to  be  found  for  pota- 
toes ;  apply  freely  in  the  hill  or  drill  ;  lay  off  rows  three 
feet  apart  with  a  wide  shovel  plow,  and  eight  to  ten  inches 
deep,  in  which  drop  the  potato  cuttings  fifteen  to  eighteen 
inches  apart,  turn  them  cut  part  down,  cover  four  to  five 
inches  deep.  Cut  the  potatoes  into  four  to  eight  pieces, 
according  to  size.  A  piece  containing  one  or  two  buds  or 
eyes  does  as  well  or  better  than  to  plant  the  whole  potato. 
In  the  Southern  States  plantings  may  be  made  in  July  or 
August  for  a  fall  crop.  Cultivate  until  signs  of  bloom- 


IRISH  POTATO. 


ing  appear,  then  hill  up  and  lay  by.  The  potato  likes 
a  cool  moist  bed  to  grow  in — hence  mulching  with  leaves 
or  straw  is  very  desirable,  when  convenient  to  obtain 
cheaply,  and  obviates  the  necessity  of  cultivating.  Avoid 
low  damp  soils.  I  have  raised  enormous  crops  by  open- 
ing trenches  in  rich  garden  soil,  eight  inches  deep,  drop- 
ping potatoes  and  covering  with  half  rotted  straw  from 
oats,  wheat  or  rye ;  raise  the  straw  several  inches  above 
the  level  so  as  to  turn  the  water  from  the  trenches. 


54  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

SWEET  POTATO. — (Ipomcva  Batatas.) 
Early  in  March  (but  much  later  if  you  are  not  ready  so 
soon  as  this)  bad  the  potatoes  somewhat  after  this  man- 
ner :  out  of  doors  in  the  South,  under  glass  in  the  North. 
Select  a  spot  where  water  will  not  stand,  take  out  the 
soil  about  eight  inches  deep,  three  feet  wide,  and  any 
length  you  please,  fill  in  with  good  strong  stable  manure 
four  or  five  inches  deep,  on  which  spread  fine  top  soil 
one-half  an  inch  to  oue  inch  deep,  on  this  lay  the  pota- 
toes as  close  together  as  possible  and  not  to  touch  each 
other,  press  firmly  down,  then  scatter  lightly  over  them 
some  thoroughly  rotted  lot  manure,  then  cover  about  four 
inches  deep  with  the  top  soil  you  threw  out  of  the  bed. 
Place  a  few  boards  over  the  bed  to  prevent  heavy  rains 
from  falling  on  it  too  much.  After  frosts  are  over  take 
off  about  two  inches  of  the  .covering  and  the  slips  or 
plants  will  soon  appear.  From  the  latter  part  of  May  to 
July  4th,  transplant  to  where  you  wish  to  make  the 
crop.  Break  the  land  thoroughly,  but  not  necessarily 
deep  ;  low,  level  and  damp  lands  will  not  do  ;  high,  dry, 
mellow  or  loamy  soils  are  best,  and  the  fresher  the  better. 
Lay  off  rows  three  and  a  half  to  four  feet  apart,  and  in 
this  furrow  apply  two  to  four  hundred  pounds  of  ammo- 
niated  superphosphate,  containing  potash,  per  acre.  If 
home-made  manure  is  used,  be  sure  that  it  is  old  and 
thoroughly  decomposed,  and  if  possible  mix  some  ashes 
and  acid  phosphate  with  it.  Cover  this  furrow  by  run- 
ning on  each  side  of  it  with  a  one-horse  turn  plow,  thus 
making  a  narrow  ridge  ;  on  which  plant  the  slips  eighteen 
inches  apart,  keep  clear  of  weeds  and  grass  until  the  vines 
begin  to  run  freely,  then  hill  up  and  lay  by.  It  is  well  not 
to  permit  the  vines  to  take  root  between  the  rows,  as  this 
will  diminish  the  crop.  Loosen  up  the  vines  occasionally. 
A  fork  hoe  is  good  for  the  purpose.  Just  before,  or  soon 
after  frost  in  the  fall,  dig  the  potatoes  and  store  away  in  a 
dry,  warm  place  for  winter.  A  common-sense  way  to  do 


GARDEN   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  55 

this  is  to  select  a  spot  on  the  ground  where  water  will  not 
stand,  and  throw  up  the  earth,  three  or  four  inches  above 
the  natural  surface,  in  a  circular  shape  about  four  or  five 
!  feet  in  diameter,  press  down  firmly,  and  on  this  place 
:  twenty-five  or  thirty  bushels  of  potatoes  piled  up  in  a 
!  cone-shape,  sharp  at  the  top,  coyer  with  corn  stalks  or 
grass  two  or  three  inches  thick,  then  cover  with  earth  six 
or  eight  inches  deep.  Place  a  few  boards  over  the  top  to 
keep  rain  out.  Make  as  many  of  these  banks  as  you 
need.  In  the  Northern  States  it  is  advisable  to  store  in 
some  good  warm,  dry  cellar.  Leave  the  top  of  the  bank 
open  a  day  or  two,  as  the  potato  will  sweat  somewhat 
when  first  banked  ;  after  this  cover  up  entirely.  Be  sure 
to  keep  them  warm.  The  vines  make  very  good  cattle 
feed.  Most  of  the  cultivation  may  be  done  with  the 
plow. 

RADISH. — (Raplianus  sativus. ) 

Select  light  sandy  loam,  if  possible  ;  lay  off  rows  two 
inches  deep,  twelve  inches  apart,  in  which  drill  the  seed, 
thinly  ;  cover  about  one  inch  deep.  Sow  at  intervals, 
from  February  first  to  September  first ;  say  three  weeks 
between  sowings,  so  as  to  have  a  succession  of  crops. 
Any  good  soil  will  produce  them. 

RAPE. — (Brassica  campesfris,  VAR.) 

Sow  in  September,  either  broadcast  or  in  shallow  drills, 
eighteen  inches  apart ;  thin  out  plants  to  two  feet  apart ; 
transplant  the  same  as  cabbage.  Used  as  greens  during 
the  winter,  or  it  may  be  permitted  to  grow  in  drills, 
thickly  planted,  and  rows  four  feet  apart.  The  seeds  are 
good  for  canary  birds  and  for  making  oil. 

ROQUETTE. 

Plant  in  April  or  May  ;  lay  off  rows  half  an  inch  to  an 
inch  deep,  eighteen  inches  apart,  in  which  drill  the  seed 
thinly ;  co\er  lightly. 


56  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

RHUBARB. — (Rheum  Rhaponticum.) 

Sow  seed  in  March  or  April ;  select  rich  soil ;  lay  off 
rows  fifteen  inches  apart,  in  which  sow  the  seed  thinly. 
After  they  come  up  and  become  strong,  say  two  or  three 
inches  high,  thin  out  to  eight  to  ten  inches  apart.  In 
the  fall,  after  frost,  transplant  into  permanent  ground, 
three  feet  apart  each  way  ;  soil  should  be  deep  and  rich. 
One  planting  lasts  for  several  years.  The  leaf  stalk  is  the 
part  used.  It  is  boiled  and  used  in  same  way  as  green 
apples,  which  it  is  very  much  like  in  taste. 

SALSIFY,  OB  OYSTER  PLANT. — (Tragopogon  porrifolius.) 

Salsify  requires  rich  mellow  soil,  broken  eighteen 
inches  deep.  If  the  land  is  not  naturally  rich  use  old, 
well  rotted  lot  manure,  or  good  ammoniated  commercial 
fertilizer,  mixed  well  with  the  soil.  Plant  in  March  or 
April.  Lay  off  rows,  an  inch  and  a-half  deep,  twelve 
inches  apart,  in  which  drill  the  seed  thinly  ;  cover  about 
one  inch  deep.  When  well  up,  thin  out  to  four  to  six 
inches  apart ;  cultivate  well.  The  roots  will  keep  sound 
in  the  open  ground  all  the  winter.  It  is  a  delicious  vege- 
table for  soups,  and  for  slicing  and  boiling  and  dressing 
like  oysters,  or  frying  in  batter.  Use  it  during  winter. 

SCORZONERA,  OR  BLACK  SALSIFY  (Scorzonera  Hispa- 
nica. — This  is  similar  to  salsify  and  requires  same  treat- 
ment. 

SPINACH. — (Spinacia  oleracea.) 

Spinach  is  one  of  the  hardiest  and  most  delicate  vege- 
tables that  we  have  for  greens.  Plant  in  September  and 
October  for  winter  use,  and  from  March  to  July  for 
spring  and  summer  use.  Spinach  requires  rich  soil ;  sow 
thinly,  broadcast,  or  in  drills  fifteen  inches  apart. 

SEA  KALE. — (Crambe  maritima.) 

Sow  about  April  first,  one  inch  deep,  in  drills  two  feet 
apart,  and  thin  out  to  five  or  six  inches,  and  the  spring 


GARDEN"   OR   VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  57 

following  transplant  to  t^ree  feet  apart  each  way.  Cover 
up  the  plants  with  leaves  or  straw,  so  as  to  blanch  its 
shoots  like  celery.  Cook  same  as  asparagus.  Transplant 
some  closely  in  a  warm  cellar  to  force  for  winter  use. 

SORREL. — (Rumex  Acetosella.) 

Sow  thinly  in  shallow  drills  during  spring.     Used  as 
salad. 

SQUASH. — (Cucurbita  maxima,  etc.) 

Plant  this  well  known  and  delicate  vegetable  in  spring 
after  weather  gets  fully  warm.     They  will  grow  on  any 


HUBBAKD   SQUASH. 

good  soil,  but  a  rich  mellow  loam  fully  exposed  to  the 
sun  is  best.  Make  hills  four  feet  apart  for  the  bush  or 
bunch  varieties,  and  six  to  eight  feet  apart  for  the  run- 
ning kinds.  Drop  six  to  eight  seeds  in  each  hill ;  thin 
out  to  two  or  three  plants  to  the  hill ;  keep  nicely  culti- 
vated. Gather  the  fruit  while  tender,  boil  and  dress  with 
butter  or  cream,  salt  and  pepper. 

TOMATO. — (Ly coper sicum  esculentum. ) 

This  is  now  perhaps  one  of  the  most  popular  of  all  gar- 
den vegetables,  and  one  of  the  most  delicious.  It  will 
grow  anywhere  one  chooses  to  plant  it,  if  fully  exposed 
to  the  sun.  Start  the  plants  early  by  planting  seeds  in 
a  hot-bed  under  glass,  in  February  and  March ;  for  a 
late  crop,  plant  in  open  ground  in  shallow  drills  after 
frosts  are  over.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  large  enough 


58 


HOW   TO    PLANT. 


and  the  weather  becomes  warm,  transplant  with  checks 
four  feet  each  way  ;  cultivate  clean.  The  crop  will  be 
abundant. 

For  perfection  in  this  fruit,  keep  the  vines  from  the 
ground  by  laying  brush  between  the  rows,  or  tying  up  to 
stakes  or  frames.  Very  large  and  extra  fine  specimens 


TOMATO  TRELLTS. 


may  be  obtained  by  pinching  off  all  side  shoots  and  train- 
ing the  main  stem  up  to  a  stake. 

The  green  tomatoes  make  an  elegant  pickle.  When 
thoroughly  ripe  they  are  the  most  delicious  relish  ever 
placed  on  the  table,  and  decidedly  healthful.  They  may 
be  eaten  raw,  alone,  or  with  salt,  vinegar,  and  pepper,  or 
with  sugar.  They  are  good  stewed,  fried,  or  baked,  and 
make  the  best  of  catsup.  They  may  be  dried  in  an 


GARDEN   OR  VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  59 

evaporator  and  used  during  winter  for  soups,  for  which 
there  is  nothing  better.  The  tomato  used  to  be  known 
as  the  Love-apple,  and  was  for  a  long  time  considered 
poisonous. 

TURNIP. — (Brassica  campestris,  VAR.) 

Plant  from  July  fifteenth  to  October  first,  in  very  rich, 
deep  soil ;  somewhat  sandy  soil  is  preferred.  If  not  rich 
make  it  so  with  thoroughly  decomposed  lot  manure  or 
good  ammoniated  dissolved  bone.  After  plowing  and 
pulverizing  the  ground  effectively,  the  seed  may  be  sown 
either  broadcast  or  in  drills,  at  the  rate  of  a  pound  and  a 
half  of  seed  per  acre.  If  sown  broadcast,  cover  with  a 
brush  ;  if  drilled,  lay  off  rows  about  one  inch  deep,  eight- 
een inches  or  more  apart,  in  which  drill  the  seed  thinly, 
and  cover  lightly.  When  up,  thin  out  to  five  to  eight 
inches  apart  and  cultivate  about  twice.  Plant  Ruta  Baga, 
and  all  of  that  type  in  July,  the  rough  leaved,  long  rooted 
varieties  in  August,  and  the  flat  sorts  in  early  September. 
The  latter  may  also  be  planted  in  the  spring.  Southern 
grown  seed  produce  the  best  salad  or  greens ;  northern 
grown  produce  the  best  turnip.  Before  freezing  weather, 
take  up  the  turnips,  cut  off  the  leaves  about  one  inch 
from  the  top  of  the  iroot  and  bury  in  a  cellar  or  bank  up 
for  winter  use.  Some  cover  them  in  the  patch  and  let 
them  remain  during  winter  or  until  used. 

SWEET   HERBS. 

Sweet  or  aromatic,  pot  and  medicinal  herbs.  No  gar- 
den is  complete  without  an  assortment  of  these  herbs,  so 
useful  in  sickness  and  also  for  seasoning.  There  are  quite 
a  number  of  varieties,  all  of  which  are  shown  in  the  seeds- 
men's catalogues.  Sow  them  in  April  or  May,  in  shallow 
drills  fifteen  to  twenty  inches  apart ;  when  up,  thin  out 
to  three  or  four  inches  apart  and  keep  clean  from  grass 
and  weeds.  Gather  them  on  a  sunny  day,  just  before 


60  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

they  come  into  full  bloom,  dry  quickly  and  pack  firmly 
away  for  use. 

ELECAMPANE. — (Inula  HeUnium.) 
Plant  in  hills  a  foot  square.     The  roots  are  boiled  and 
sweetened  with  sugar  or  syrup  and  used  as  a  cough  medi- 
cine. 

CASTOR  BEANS. — (Riciuus  communis.) 
Plant  during  March  and  April,  on  any  fair  soil,  in 
hills  four  feet  apart  each  way ;  cultivate   until  large 
enough  to  take  care  of  themselves.     The  beans  are  used 
for  making  castor  oil. 

GOURDS. — (Lagenaria  vulgaris.) 

Soak  the  seed  twenty-four  hours,  plant  in  rich  ground 
very  early  in  spring  in  some  locality  where  the  vines  can 
climb  on  some  brush  or  a  fence,  keep  the  weeds  and  grass 
down,  but  do  not  disturb  the  roots  by  deep  tillage. 

ARTICHOKE — JERUSALEM. — (Helianthus  tuber osus. ) 

The  Jerusalem  (Hog)  and  white  French  Artichoke  are 
planted  somewhat  after  the  manner  of  Irish  potatoes. 
Plant  in  February  or  March  ;  select  a  mellow  rich  soil, 
or  manure  with  ashes  and  acid  phosphate.  After  plowing 
the  land  well,  lay  off  rows  four  or  five  inches  deep,  and 
three  feet  apart,  in  which  drop  a  piece  of  tuber  about 
every  two  feet,  cover  three  or  four  inches  deep.  The 
plants  will  come  voluntarily  every  year  for  a  number  of 
years  ;  but  the  roots  will  not  be  large  unless  new  plantings 
are  made  annually.  Very  productive,  good  for  hogs. 
When  baked  they  are  nearly  equal  to  a  potato.  The 
tubers  or  roots  are  perfectly  hardy,  and  keep  better  in 
the  ground  than  anywhere  else.  Dig  them  as  they  may 
be  needed. 

HORSE-RADISH. — ( CochUaria  Armor acia. ) 
Propagated  from  roots.     Plant  from  November  to  first 


GARDEN"   OR    VEGETABLE   SEEDS.  61 

of  March,  in  rich  mellow  soil,  in  rows  three  feet  apart, 
twelve  inches  apart  in  the  row,  and  four  inches  deep  : 
break  the  roots  into  pieces  one  and  a  half  to  two  inches 
long  before  planting.  The  roots  when  peeled  and  grated, 
are  very  appetizing,  and  there  is  nothing  better  as  a  rel- 
ish. New  plantings  should  be  made  every  two  years  at 
least. 

HOP  VINES. — (Humulus  Lupulus.) 

Procure  some  cuttings  and  plant  them  in  good  rich 
ground  about  six  by  eight  feet  apart  ;  set  poles  for  the 
vines  to  climb  on.  February  or  March  is  the  best  time 
for  setting  the  cuttings.  They  may  be  planted  to  run  on 
a  fence  or  an  arbor. 

CHIVES. — (Allium  Schcenoprasum.) 

This  is  something  like  a  shallot,  only  much  smaller, 
and  is  used  for  seasoning.  Plant  the  same  as  shallotts 
during  September. 

PAMPAS  GRASS. — (Gynerium  argenteum.) 

This  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  the  ornamental 
grasses.  Procure  rooted  plants  and  transplant  in  a  good 
rich  mellow  soil  in  March  or  April ;  protect  during  win- 
ter with  a  covering  of  straw. 

TARRAGON*. — ( A  rtemisio,  Dracunculus. ) 

Tarragon  roots  may  be  procured  and  planted  by  those 
who  like  this  herb.  Plant  two  feet  apart  each  way. 

SOJA  BEANS. — (Sofa  hispida.) 

This  is  a  coarse,  bushy  growing  bean,  good  for  stock 
feed,  but  not  equal  to  the  field  pea  where  the  latter  will 
grow.  Plant  on  any  good  soil  in  May  or  early  June,  in 
rows  three  feet  apart,  drop  two  or  three  beans  every 
twelve  inches  in  the  furrow  ;  cultivate  well. 


62  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

LUPINES. — (Lupinus  albus.) 

Plant  in  same  manner  as  Seld  peas.  Of  no  use  whatever 
in  the  Southern  States. 

CHIGOE Y. — ( Cichorium  Intybus. ) 
Plant  and   cultivate  the   same   as   the  carrot.      The 
root  sliced,  dried,  roasted,  and  ground,  is  used  in  adul- 
terating coffee. 

SCOLYMUS. — (Scolymus  Hispanicus. ) 

Follow  the  same  directions  as  for  carrot.  Used  the 
same  as  salsify,  not  worth  planting. 

WITLOOF. — ( Cichorium  Intybus. ) 

A  new  salad  and  culinary  -root,  which  is  a  variety  of 
chicory  and  cultivated  the  same  as  parsnips.  Sow  two 
ounces  seed  to  one  hundred  yards  of  row,  in  September. 
Eat  the  young  leaves  as  lettuce,  or  boil  as  spinach. 


TEEE  SEEDS. 

All  hard-shelled  tree  seeds  should  be  planted  in  the  fall, 
from  one  to  three  or  four  inches  deep.  Soft-shelled  seeds 
may  be  kept  in  some  secure  manner  until  early  spring, 
when  it  is  best  to  soak  them  in  water  over  night,  before 
planting.  Many  tree  and  shrub  seeds  need  special  and 
peculiar  treatment.  So  it  is  safest  to  ask  your  seedsman 
for  full  instructions  when  you  buy  a  particular  seed. 


OSAGE  ORANGE.— (Madura  aurantiaca.) 

Plant  in  February  or  March  ;  procure  the  seed  grown 
the  previous  year ;  pour  hot  water  over  the  seeds  and  soak 
twenty-four  hours,  then  mix  them  up  in  wet  sand  and 


JUTE — RAMIE — FLOWER   SEEDS.  63 

let  remain  four  or  five  days,  when  they  will  show  signs 
of  sprouting.  Lay  off  rows  two  or  three  inches  deep  in 
rich,  well  prepared,  mellow  ground,  in  which  drill  the 
seed  thinly,  and  cover  about  two  inches  deep,  pressing 
the  earth  firmly  down  on  them.  When  the  plants  are 
one  year  old  or  more,  transplant  in  such  a  manner  as  you 
may  desire  ;  cut  back  severely  if  for  hedges. 


JUTE. — (Corchorus  capsularis.) 

An  annual  fibre  producing  plant  from  Asia.  Plant 
during  spring,  if  for  seed,  in  shallow  drills,  thinly  sown, 
rows  five  feet  apart ;  cover  lightly.  It  is  also  sown  broad- 
cast when  the  fibre  is  wanted.  The  bark  or  fibre  is  used 
for  making  gunny  bagging. 


RAMIE  OR  CHINA  GRASS.—  (Bcehmeria  nivea.) 

A  perennial  and  best  propagated  from  sets,  planted 
thickly  in  rows  five  feet  apart,  on  rich,  light,  well  drained 
soil  in  February  and  March.  The  fibre  of  the  inner  bark 
is  used  as  a  substitute  for,  or  to  mix  with  silk.  The  plant 
needs  some  protection  from  very  hard  frosts.  Keep  clean 
of  weeds. 


FLOWER  SEEDS. 

As  a  rule,  flower  seeds  require  much  more  care  in  plant- 
ing than  vegetable  seeds,  and  no  general"  rule  can  be 
given,  as  many  of  them  require  specific  directions,  I  will 


(54  HOW  TO   PLANT 

however,  state,  that  the  best  medium  to  plant  most  of 
them  in  is,  thoroughly  rotted,  rich  woods  earth,  from 
original  forests.  Cover  the  seeds  generally  about  twice 
as  deep  as  they  are  thick.  See  full  instructions,  which 
are  usually  printed  on  each  packet  of  seeds  that  is  sold. 
Pansies  appear  to  do  well  with  indifferent  treatment. 
When  sown  in  a  box  of  coarse  gravelly  earth  from  the 
woods,  rocky  and  lumpy,  they  seem  to  succeed  best. 
Procure  a  flower  seed  catalogue  for  specific  directions  as  to 
how  and  when  to  plant,  etc. 


FRUIT  TREES. 

The  transplanting  of  fruit  trees  is  very  simple  and 
effective  when  properly  understood.  Trees  should  never 
be  planted  in  a  square  or  round  hole,  such  as  you  would 
dig  for  setting  a  post.  Many  trees  transplanted  in  this 
way  die,  much  to  the  disco uragement  of  the  planter,  who 
attributes  his  failure  to  the  insects,  drought,  or  anything 
rather  than  to  the  manner  of  transplanting.  A  good 
plan  is  to  take  a  plow  and  break  out  the  whole  length  of 
the  row  each  way,  checking  fifteen,  twenty  to  fifty  feet 
each  way,  as  you  may  elect,  running  five  or  six  or  more 
furrows  each  way,  making  sure  to  break  the  land  as  deep 
as  you  wish  to  set  the  trees.  It  is  best  to  use  a  two- 
horse  plow  ;  then  in  each  check,  you  can  draw  out  the 
earth  a  sufficient  width  and  depth  to  suit  the  roots  of  the 
tree  to  be  planted.  Trim  all  broken  roots  smoothly  and 
straighten  them  out  at  full  length  in  the  hole ;  cover 
carefully  so  as  to  get  the  earth  firmly  around  each  root, 
then  fill  up  the  hole,  and  press  the  soil  down  firmly  with 
the  foot.  Not  one  tree  in  a  thousand  will  die  if  planted 
in  this  way,  provided  the  tree  was  all  right  when  it  was 
set. 


FRUIT  TFEES.  65 

As  a  general  rule,  trees  should  be  transplanted  to  the 
same  depth  that  they  stood  in  the  nursery,  or  where  they 
were  grown.  Dwarf  pear  trees  are  an  exception  to  this 
rule,  and  should  be  planted  deep  enough  for  the  union  of 
the  pear  and  its  quince  roots,  to  be  below  the  surface  of 
the  ground,  so  that  natural  roots  may  shoot  out  from  fche 
pear  in  course  of  time,  thereby  converting  the  dwarf 
into  a  standard  tree. 

The  object  in  breaking  the  land  each  way  as  above  ad- 
vised is,  in  order  that  the  roots  may  have  free  access  to 
loose,  mallow  earth,  to  run  into  in  every  direction  from 
the  tree.  If  only  a  small  number  of  trees  are  to  be 
planted,  a  mattock  or  spading-fork  would  suffice,  using 
care  to  break  the  ground  each  way  several  feet  from 
where  the  tree  is  to  stand. 

GRAPE-VINES. 

Follow  similar  directions  as  for  fruit  trees.  Permit 
none  of  the  roots  to  be  cramped ;  straighten  them  all  out 
properly.  Plant  grape-vines  eight  to  sixteen  feet  apart. 

STRAWBERRIES. 

Plant  the  strawberry  on  a  psrfect  level  with  the  sur- 
face of  the  ground,  or  a  little  below,  never  on  a  ridge  or 
hill,  as  the  plant  has  a  tendency  to  rise  up  out  of  £he 
ground  at  any  rate.  Plant  eighteen  inches  apart  each 
way,  for  a  small  patch.  For  field  culture,  plant  in  rows 
three  feet  apart  and  twelve  inches  apart  in  the  rows. 

DISTANCES  APART   FOR  FRUIT  TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 

Easpberries  should  be  four  feet  apart  in  mellow  soil, 
and  protected  from  the  south-western  sun. 

Blackberries  should  be  planted  four  feet  .apart. 

Gooseberries,  three  feet  apart. 

Currants,  three  feet  apart. 

Fig  trees,  fifteen  feet  apart  on  the  south  side  of  some 
house  or  fence  in  the  climate  of  Georgia. 


66  HOW   TO    PLANT. 

Mulberry  trees,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Pomegranate,  six  feet  apart  and  covered  in  winter  with 
pine  tops  or  straw. 

Quince  trees,  ten  feet  apart. 

Nectarines,  fifteen  feet  by  twenty  feet. 

Peach  trees,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Plum  trees,  fifteen  feet  apart. 

Cherry  trees,  twenty  feet  apart. 

Pear  trees,  thirty  feet  apart  for  standard,  and  fifteen 
feet  apart  for  dwarf,  or  forty  and  twenty  would  be  better. 

Apricot,  fifteen  feet  apart. 

Apple,  twenty-five  feet  apart. 

Nut  trees  should  be  planted  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet 
apart,  according  to  the  size  the  tree  generally  attains. 

Use  no  fresh  manures  about  the  roots  of  the  .trees  or 
vines,  better  apply  it  on  the  surface. 

Always  lay  off  the  rows  for  your  trees  on  a  level  if  pos- 
sible, so  as  to  avoid  plowing  up  and  down  hill. 

A  good,  and  I  believe  the  best  plan,  for  setting  a  large 
orchard  is,  to  have  your  rows  of  trees  fifty  feet  apart  and 
and  twenty  feet  in  the  row.  This  will  admit  of  culti- 
vating some  such  crop  as  cotton,  potatoes,  or  peas,  be- 
tween the  rows.  All  orchards  should  be  cultivated  more 
or  less.  Small  grain  crops  and  grasses  are  injurious  to 
orchards,  especially  the  former.  After  fruit  trees  attain 
their  full  growth,  the  ground  might  be  sowed  to  grass  or 
clover  and  hogs  allowed  to  run  on  it.  Hogs  are  generally 
advantageous  to  orchards,  as  they  not  only  till  the  soil 
by  rooting,  but  they  destroy  the  worms  by  eating  the 
fallen  fruit. 

As  I  wish  this  book  to  be  beneficial  to  all  who  may 
read  its  pages,  I  shall  give  some  words  of  caution  now 
and  then  where  I  believe  it  necessary.  In  accordance  with 
this  view,  I  advise  all  who  propose  to  plant  out  orchards, 
to  first  consult  and  advise  with  the  oldest  and  most  prac- 
tical settlers  of  the  vicinity,  as  to  what  varieties  have 


FRUIT   TREES.  67 

succeeded  best  in  the  locality.  Such  a  plan  as  this  will 
save  much  expense  and  disappointment.  If  the  object 
be  to  grow  fruit  for  market,  then  select  the  fewest  num- 
ber of  varieties  possible,  you  will  often  do  better  with 
only  one  than  with  a  dozen.  There  are  very  few  local- 
ities in  this  country,  where  the  fruit  crop  is  so  certain  as 
to  justify  one  in  depending  on  it  alone  for  a  support  and 
to  make  money.  Watch  the  trees  at  all  seasons,  during 
fall  and  winter ;  cut  off  all  dead  and  broken  branches  and 
awkward  limbs ;  cut  off  all  water  sprouts  from  the  body 
and  branches  of  the  tree  ;  dig  up  all  sprouts  around  the 
roots  and  wash  the  tree -down  twice  a  year  at  least,  with 
lye  soft  soap,  and  scrape  off  all  rough  bark  that  might 
harbor  insect  enemies  of  the  tree.  The  following  is  an 
excellent  wash  for  fruit  trees,  which  is  easily  and  cheaply 
made  : 

Twelve  quarts  of  soft  soap ;  twelve  gallons  of  water. 
Bring  to  a  boil,  then  add  one  gallon  of  kerosene  oil,  and 
stir  in  thoroughly.  Wash  the  trees  down  with  this  twice 
a  year  (spring  and  fall),  and  sprinkle  the  mixture  over 
the  tops  of  the  trees  also. 


68  HOW   TO   PLANT. 


PROFITABLE  FARMING. 

Some  suggestions  whereby  farming  may  be  rendered 
more  profitable  than  many  find  it,  will  not  be  out  of 
place  in  this  book. 

Take  a  hundred  farms  in  Georgia,  for  instance,  as 
you  come  to  them,  and  probably  not  over  one  or  two 
in  this  number  can  show  a  true  type  of  any  kind  of  In- 
dian corn,  or  a  true  and  distinct  seed  of  any  other  crop. 
No  one  will  deny  that  this  is  as  it  should  not  be.  Let 
each  farmer  or  planter  see  to  it,  that  he  grows  a  pure  and 
distinct  type  of  corn,  fix  it  and  establish  it  in  peculiar 
characteristics,  so  that  everybody  will  know  "  Jones'  Lit- 
tle Red  Cob,  All  Corn,"  or  "  Jordon  Johnson's  Large 
Cob,  Pure  White  Bread  corn."  Then,  when  a  demand 
for  seed  arises,  he  has  it,  and  can  realize  a  paying  price 
for  it,  and  there  is  always  a  demand  for  pure  seed  of  all 
kinds.  I  have  found  it  more  difficult,  in  my  seed  busi- 
ness, to  find  a  pure,  well-developed  variety  of  seed  corn 
of  Southern  growth,  than  anyone  might  imagine.  Do 
not  try  to  plant  some  of  Messrs.  A,  B,  C,  D,  and  E's  corn ; 
stick  to  your  own,  and  select  it,  and  bring  it  to,  and  keep 
it  a  pure  type,  and  better  than  anybody  else's,  and  Messrs. 
A,  B,  C,  I),  and  E  will  have  to  come  to  you  for  seed. 

These  lemarks  concerning  corn,  apply  as  well  to  any 
other  grain,  or  to  any  other  crop.  Take  potatoes,  for 
instance  ;  very  few  farmers  can  show  a  strictly  pure  tuber, 
or  a  pure  root  of  the  Yellow  Sugar  Yam.  I  never  knew 
the  farmer  who  had  a  pure,  early,  prolific  and  good  staple 
variety  of  cotton,  but  he  could  find  ready  sale  for  the  seed 
at  fancy  prices.  It  is  not  well  to  plant  many  varieties  of 
any  one  crop.  Take  not  more  than  three,  at  the  most ; 
and  these  should  be,  one  early  and  one  late.  They  are 
then  not  apt  to  become  mixed.  Two  types  of  corn  (yel- 
low and  white,  for  instance),  tasseling,  silking  and  ma- 


PROFITABLE   FARMING.  69 

turing  at  the  same  time,  when  planted  in  proximity  to 
each  other,  will  cross  and  become  mixed. 

Melons,  cucumbers,  squashes,  and  others  of  that  fam- 
ily, should  not  be  planted  near  each  other  if  the  object 
be  to  save  seed  from  the  crops.  They  will  mix,  each 
vegetable  will  become  tainted  more  or  less  with  the  others 
and  consequently  be  ruined. 

TURNING   UNDER   GREEN   MANURING   CROPS. 

The  practice  of  many  farmers  of  turning  under  pea 
vines,  buckwheat,  clover  and  other  green  crops,  for  the 
purpose  of  enriching  land,  is  a  useless  expenditure  of 
labor.  Such  crops,  when  permitted  to  mature  and  decay 
upon  the  surface,  are  far  more  enriching  to  the  soil  than 
if  turned  under  green.  Turning  up  soil  to  the  heating 
rays  of  the  sun  does  not  benefit  it.  Shade  it  if  you  wish 
to  enrich  the  soil.  Break  deep  during  the  winter  and 
throw  it  up  in  ridges,  that  the  freezing  and  thawing  may 
act  upon  it,  thereby  disintegrating,  decomposing  and  ren- 
dering it  friable  and  mellow. 

ROOT   CROPS,    ETC. 

All  such  crops  as  beets,  turnips,  carrots,  parsnips, 
sweet  potatoes,  and  Jerusalem  artichokes,  are  exceedingly 
valuable  as  stock  food  during  winter.  It  is  as  easy  to 
make  a  hundred  bushels  of  either  one  of  the  above  named 
crops  as  it  is  to  make  ten  bushels  of  corn.  Carrots  in 
the  Southern  States,  and  parsnips,  both  North  and  South, 
may  be  left  in  the  open  ground  the  entire  winter,  and  will 
keep  perfectly  sound.  They  may  be  fed  to  horses,  as  well 
as  to  cows,  and  also  to  hogs,  to  very  great  advantage. 
Fruits  and  melons  are  as  necessary  for  the  health  and 
good  condition  of  your  horses,  cattle,  etc.,  as  for  your- 
self. Give  them  some  occasionally  ;  they  will  never  for- 
get you  for  it. 

It  is  frightfully  expensive  to  cultivate  and   harvest 


70  HOW  TO   PLAKT. 

Indian  corn  for  the  purpose  of  feeding  it  to  horses.  Oats, 
wheat,  rye,  barley,  millet,  and  hay  crops,  are  much  cheaper 
and  also  much  better  for  the  horse.  I  have  known  work- 
mules  to  be  kept  in  fine  condition  on  clover  hay,  with  a 
feed  of  corn  only  three  or  four  times  a  month.  I  have 
known  five  or  six  months'  time  of  a  man,  a  horse,  a  plow, 
and  an  extra  hoe  hand  occasionally,  spent  in  cultivating 
ten  or  twelve  acres  in  corn,  and  barely  harvesting  corn 
enough  to  feed  the  horse.  How  much  better  it  would  be 
to  plant  the  land  in  oats,  and  devote  your  spare  time  and 
labor  to  something  else  until  harvest,  if  only  to  go  a 
fishing. 

My  idea  as  to  how  success  may  be  attained  at  farming 
is,  to  concentrate  your  energies  upon  a  specialty.  That 
is  to  say,  direct  all  your  efforts  toward  making  a  certain 
crop  your  main  dependence.  If  equal  attention  is  devoted 
to  every  crop  planted  upon  the  farm,  the  result  will  be 
something  of  everything  and  not  much  of  anything.  But 
to  be  more  specific,  suppose  your  inclinations  lead  you 
toward  the  cotton  plant ;  then  bend  all  your  efforts  toward 
making  that  crop  a  grand  success.  Plant  of  vegetables, 
melons,  fruits,  potatoes,  corn,  oats,  wheat,  etc.,  merely 
enough  to  supply  your  family,  and  then  make  a  "  ten 
strike  "  for  cotton.  Study  it,  improve  it,  humor  it,  pet 
it,  and  bring  up  the  yield  from  one  to  three  bales  per  acre. 
This  can  be  readily  done,  and  success  will  certainly  crown 
your  efforts.  Cotton  is,  beyond  all  question,  the  crop  for 
the  Southern  States.  Some  might  choose  fruits,  or  others 
grain,  or  some  particular  root  crop  for  a  leader  ;  and  in 
the  Northern  States,  such  would  have  to  be  the  case  of 
course,  for  cotton  cannot  be  cultivated  there  ;  but  by  all 
means  have  a  specialty.  The  successful  lawyer  or  doctor, 
while  he  attends  to  everything  in  his  line,  generally  makes 
a  specialty  of  some  particular  line  of  practice  in  his  pro- 
fession. The  avoidance  of  debt,  strikes  me  as  being  of  the 
greatest  importance  to  every  farmer. 


PROFITABLE   FARMING.  71 

There  is  no  occupation  so  pleasant  and  independent  as 
that  of  the  intelligent,  successful  farmer.  Many  do  not 
believe  that  independence  can  be  reached  upon  the  farm. 
A  distinguished  United  States  Senator  said  to  me  on  one 
occasion,  that  he  did  not  believe  a  comfortable  living 
could  be  realized  at  farming.  The  Senator,  as  well  as  all 
who  labor  under  such  an  impression,  is  mistaken,  of 
course.  I  can  name  a  hundred  farmers  now,  who  are 
decidedly  successful  at  farming,  who  are  accumulating 
money  year  after  year.  I  wish  I  eould  feel  at  liberty  to 
give  their  names  here,  so  that  all  doubting  Thomases 
might  visit  them  and  see  for  themselves. 

It  is  of  the  very  greatest  importance  to  know  when  and 
how  to  plant.  An  intelligent  gentleman  once  called 
upon  me  for  some  southern  stock  peas,  or  field  peas,  say- 
ing he  wished  to  plant  them  for  the  purpose  of  enriching 
his  land.  It  was  during  February  that  he  purchased  the 
peas,  as  near  as  my  memory  serves  me,  I  presume  he  was 
making  his  purchase  thus  early  in  order  to  have  them  at 
home  in  readiness  to  plant  when  the  time  came.  Much 
to  my  amusement  and  surprise,  he  came  in  after  three  or 
four  weeks,  complaining  that  the  frost  had  destroyed  his 
crop  of  peas.  I  had  a  good  laugh  at  my  friend's  expense. 
He  had  presumed  that  because  the  garden,  or  English  peas, 
were  perfectly  hardy,  therefore  all  other  peas  were  equally 
so.  This  book  would  have  saved  him  many  times  its  cost 
in  that  one  instance. 


72  HOW   TO   PLANT. 


FORAGE  PLANTS. 

We  give  here  a  list  of  such  plants  as  may  be  utilized  as 
forage  crops,  viz  :  Millo  Maize,  Dhourra  Corn,  Ivory 
Wheat,  or  Egyptian  Rice  Corn,  Cat-tail  or  Pearl  Millet, 
Indian  Corn,  including  the  Sugar  varieties  ;  Sorghum 
Cane,  Prickly  Comfrey,  Teosinte  (Euchlcena  luxurians), 
Rural  Branching  Sorghum,  Field  or  Stock  Peas,  Soja 
Beans,  Lupines,  Lucerne  or  Alfalfa,  Kaffir  Corn,  Pop 
Corn,  Rye,  Barley,  Oats,  Wheat,  German  Millet,  Sweet 
Potato  Vines,  Rice. 


WHAT  TO  DO  WITH  THE  CROPS. 

To  the  skillful  and  experienced  farmer,  the  following 
hints  as  to  what  to  do  with  a  crop  after  it  is  made,  are 
unnecessary,  but  to  those  who  are  entirely  unfamiliar 
with  such  matters,  some  suggestions  as  to  when  and  how 
to  harvest  crops,  and  the  uses  to  be  made  of  them,  will 
not  be  out  of  place — it  being  as  important  to  properly 
save  a  crop  as  it  is  to  plant  it  right. 

JERUSALEM   ARTICHOKES. 

Under  this  head  we  include  all  varieties  of  artichokes 
that  produce  edible  tubers  or  roots.  In  the  Southern 
States  let  the  tubers  remain  in  the  ground,  or  dig  and 
bank  as  directed  for  sweet  potatoes.  Pursue  the  latter 
method  altogether  in  the  colder  States.  Cook  and  eat 
the  same  as  Irish  potatoes  ;  also  pickle  like  cucumbers. 
They  are  fed  to  hogs  and  cattle  either  raw  or  boiled. 

ASPARAGUS. 

Cut  the  young  sprouts  when  tender  and  from  three  to 
six  inches  long.  Cufc  about  one  inch  under  ground. 


WHAT  TO   DO   WITH  THE   CROPS.  73 

Boil  in  clear  water ;  when  done,  some  sweet  milk  may  be 
added.  Season  with  pepper,  butter  and  salt  to  suit  the 
taste.  Very  healthful  and  delicious. 

BEETS. 

These  may  be  pulled  for  table  use  when  quite  young, 
from  one  and  a  half  to  three  inches  in  diameter.  Boil  in 
clear  water  until  soft.  Slip  the  skins  from  them,  slice 
and  serve  hot,  with  butter,  salt  and  pepper,  or  let  become 
cold  and  serve  with  vinegar  and  sugar  to  suit  the  taste. 
They  may  be  used  as  feed  to  milk  cows,  sliced  raw,  or 
boiled. 

BEAKS — SNAP  SHORTS. 

Boil  with  nicely  cured,  sweet  bacon  until  quite  tender. 
Serve  with  pepper  and  salt ;  also  pickle  when  young. 

CORN. 

Indian  corn  of  the  field  varieties  should  be  allowed  to 
remain  on  the  stalk  until  thoroughly  dry,  then  gather 
and  store  away  in  the  shuck  or  husk,  in  a  tight  dry  barn.  It 
will  keep  freer  from  weevils  in  this  way  than  in  any  other. 
Strip  from  the  shuck,  or  husk  it  as  needed  for  use.  When 
ground  into  meal,  it  makes  a  most  healthful  and  delicious 
bread  and  cakes  ;  when  coarsely  ground,  it  makes  excellent 
hominy  or  grits.  It  is  the  richest  of  all  feed  for  stock  of 
all  kinds.  When  green,  it  is  pulled  and  boiled  and  eaten, 
with  butter,  and  in  this  way  is  unsurpassed  by  any  dish 
that  comes  to  the  table.  For  fattening  hogs,  it  is  un- 
equalled by  any  grain  under  the  sun.  Our  new  citizens, 
who  come  from  countries  where  corn  is  not  known  at  all, 
will  appreciate  the  above  remarks  upon  this  grain,  though 
old  residents,  being  familiar  with  it,  do  not  need  them. 

BROCCOLI — BRUSSELS  SPROUTS— BORECOLE,  OR  KALE. 

These  are  all  varieties  of  the  cabbage.  The  first  is 
boiled  until  tender  and  dressed  with  drawn  butter ;  the 
other  two  are  treated  the  same  as  cabbage  or  greens. 


74  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

BEANS — SHELLED. 

Green  or  dry  shelled  beans  are  generally  boiled  with  a 
piece  of  sweet  bacon  or  pork,  and  seasoned  to  the  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper.  One  of  the  most  nutritious  and 
substantial  of  all  dishes. 

CABBAGES. 

Those  which  head  up  in  the  summer  should  be  used 
with  as  little  delay  as  possible,  as  they  will  not  keep  long. 
Those  that  form  heads  late  in  the  fall,  should  be  sold,  or 
heeled  in  near  together  with  heads  inclining  southward, 
and  covered  with  loose  straw  or  something  of  the  sort. 
A  rough  shelter  over  them  would  be  advisable  ;  they  will 
keep  a  long  time  in  this  way.  Boil  with  bacon  or  corned 
beeef,  or  in  clear  water,  and  season  with  butter,  salt, 
pepper  and  vinegar.  Cabbage  may  be  chopped  fine  and 
eaten  raw  with  vinegar,  mustard,  hard-boiled  eggs,  etc. 
They  also  make  good  pickles,  and  they  are  excellent  food 
for  cows;  hogs,  etc. 

CAEROTS. 

The  carrot  being  perfectly  hardy  in  the  South,  may  be 
left  standing  where  it  grew,  until  used.  Or  they  may  be 
pulled  or  lifted,  and  banked  as  directed  for  sweet  potatoes. 
In  colder  climates  they  would  be  injured  if  left  in  the 
ground,  and  they  must  be  banked  or  pitted,  or  stored  in 
a  cellar.  Carrots  are  excellent  for  the  table  when  boiled 
and  seasoned  to  suit  the  taste,  and  there  is  nothing  bet- 
ter for  cows  or  horses. 

ONIONS. 

As  soon  as  a  larger  share  of  the  tops  die  down,  the 
onions  should  be  pulled  up  and  left  lying  on  the  ground 
for  a  day  or  two  to  dry  off.  Afterward  they  should  be 
laid  away  in  a  cool,  dry  place,  or  sold  at  once. 


WHAT  TO   DO   WITH  THE   CROPS.  75 

IRISH  POTATOES. 

Dig  when  the  tops  die  down,  dry  in  some  cool  and 
shady  place,  and  store  them  in  a  dry,  cool  cellar.  They 
must  be  cool,  or  they  will  not  keep.  Under  the  center 
of  a  board  floored  house  is  a  good  place  to  keep  them 
during  warm  weather.  They  must  not  be  permitted  to 
freeze. 

SWEET   POTATOES. 

See  under  directions  for  planting. 
BROOM  CORK. 

As  soon  as  the  heads  have  fully  formed,  break  down  the 
stalks  about  a  foot  below  the  head  and  let  the  straw  hang 
down  so  as  to  keep  it  straight.  After  it  has  matured,  cut 
and  take  it  to  some  shelter  and  keep  dry.  If  it  becomes 
wet,  the  straw  will  be  stained,  rendering  it  unsalable. 
When  dry,  strip  off  the  seeds,  then  bale  the  straw,  being 
careful  to  keep  it  straight.  Now  sell  it  to  best  advantage. 
The  seed  may  be  ground  and  fed  to  cattle. 

CLOVER   HAT. 

As  soon  as  most  of  the  blooms  assume  a  brownish  color, 
the  clover  is  ready  to  cut.  All  that  is  cut  during  the 
day,  should  be  raked  up  into  small  heaps  before  night  and 
opened  out  again  after  the  dew  dries  off  in  the  morning, 
then  throw  up  again  the  following  evening,  and  as  soon 
as  cured,  put  into  a  permanent  stack,  securely  covered,  or 
haul  to  the  barn.  Do  your  best  to  prevent  it  from 
getting  wet. 

GRASS  HAY. 

Follow  about  same  directions  as  given  for  clover. 
COTTON. 

The  staple  should  be  picked  as  fast  as  it  is  fully  opened, 
and  stored  under  some  dry  shelter,  as  free  from  dirt  and 
dust  as  possible.  Have  it  ginned  ;  put  as  near  500  pounds 


76  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

in  a  bale  as  practicable  ;  never  under  300  pounds,  ii  pos- 
sible to  avoid  it.  Cotton  is  easily  harvested,  easily  pre- 
served ;  no  danger  of  its  spoiling  in  any  way.  It  meets 
with  a  ready  sale,  and  never  fails  to  bring  in  the  cash.- 

CASTOB  BEANS. 

The  fruit,  or  pods,  are  borne  in  large  pyramidal  clus- 
ters ;  if  left  upon  the  plant  until  quite  ripe,  the  pods 
will  burst  open  and  scatter  the  seeds,  which,  by'  the 
elasticity  of  the  pods,  are  thrown  to  a  great  distance,  and 
lost.  The  pods  ripen  unequally  upon  the  clusters,  and 
these  mature  in  succession  upon  the  plant.  As  soon  as 
the  pods  upon  the  lower,  or  broad  end  of  the  clusters 
turn  brown  the  harvesting  should  begin.  The  clusters 
are  cut,  thrown  into  a  wagon  and  taken  to  the  "  popping 
pen."  This  is  a  piece  of  firm  ground,  enclosed  by  a  high 
board  fence ;  the  clusters  of  pods  are  spread  on  the 
ground,  and  as  the  pods  ripen  they  throw  out  the  seeds. 
When  all  the  pods  likely  to  do  so  have  popped,  the  refuse 
is  removed  and  the  beans  swept  up  and  bagged,  in  strong, 
one  or  two  bushel  bags  for  market. 

BUCKWHEAT,    BARLEY,    OATS,    EYE   AND   WHEAT. 

These  grains  are  all  harvested  in  pretty  much  the 
same  manner,  but  as  soon  as  the  heads  assume  a  yellowish 
color,  tie  in  convenient  bundles,  set  up  into  shocks  of 
about  twelve  bundles  including  the  cap.  Do  this  in  a 
substantial  manner,  so  that  the  shocks  will  not  fall  down, 
and  place  the  caps  on  in  such  a  way  as  to  protect  the 
grain  from  the  rains  and  heavy  dews.  After  three  or 
more  weeks  of  good  warm. weather,  the  grain  becomes 
cured  and  is  ready  to  thresh.  Store  in  some  good  dry 
place  in  not  too  great  a  bulk,  or  sell  it  in  your  nearest 
market.  Buckwheat  is  not  worth  planting  for  the  seed 
in  the  Cotton  States,  but  it  is  very  valuable  as  a  bee  pas- 
ture and  as  a  soil  renovator. 


WHAT   TO   DO    WITH   THE    CROPS.  7? 

EICE. 

Eice  must  be  harvested  similarly  to  wheat,  etc.  It  re- 
quires the  promptest  attention.  It  must  not  be  cut  until 
the  grain  is  ripe,  but  must  be  cut  immediately  after  it  is 
ripe.  If  permitted  to  stand  longer,  the  seed  will  fall  off 
in  harvesting,  causing  a  very  great  loss.  Thresh  it  in  a 
machine  similarly  to  wheat.  When  threshed  the  rice  is 
ready  for  the  mortar  and  pestle ;  by  this  operation  the 
husk  and  inner  coat  are  broken  off  of  the  grain,  after 
which  it  is  polished  or  scoured,  and  is  then  ready  for 
use. 

GERMAN   MILLET. 

Harvest  this  as  soon  as  the  heads  are  fully  out,  or  about 
the  time  the  seeds  are  in  the  milk,  that  is,  if  the  object  be 
to  make  hay.  It  cures  very  quickly.  Throw  up  into 
heaps  before  night  so  as  to  protect  it  from  the  dew  ;  spread 
out  again  next  day.  Repeat  this  operation  daily  for  about 
three  days,  when  the  hay  will  be  cured  and  ready  to  store 
away.  It  is  perhaps  the  easiest  of  all  hay  crops  to  cure, 
and  one  of  the  richest. 

If  it  is  desired  to  save  seed,  then  let  the  crop  stand  un- 
til the  heads  become  ripe.  Then  cut  and  thresh. 

HUNGARIAN   MILLET. 

This  is  also  called  Hungarian  grass,  and  is  to  be  treated 
in  the  same  manner. 

CAT-TAIL   MILLET. 

This,  often  called  Pearl  Millet,  is  better  fed  green  than 
in  any  other  state.  When  three  feet  high,  cut  within  an 
inch  of  the  ground,  and  feed  to  cattle  or  horses.  It  will 
soon  come  again,  and  maybe  cut  three  to  five  times  dur- 
ing the  season.  A  few  hills  may  be  left  uncut  for  seed. 

SORGHUM   FOR   FORAGE. 

When  sorghum  is  planted  for  forage,  cut  as  soon  as  the 
seed-clusters  are  fully  formed.  Shock  it  securely  and  let 


78  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

it  stand  a  month  or  more  to  become  well  cured.    It  must 
be  thoroughly  cured  before  housing  or  it  will  spoil. 

MILLO   MAIZE. 

If  the  object  be  to  make  fodder  only,  then  cut  it  when 
five  or  six  feet  high,  before  it  begins  to  head.  Shock 
securely,  and  let  it  remain  until  cured.  It  may  be  util- 
ized to  still  greater  advantage  by  treating  it  after,  the  fol- 
lowing manner  :  As  soon  as  the  heads  appear,  break  or 
cut  them  off  ;  preserve  the  heads,  as  they  are  good  feed. 
Then,  after  eight  or  ien  days,  "strip  the  fodder  from  the 
stalks,  and  cure  and  save  it.  After  a  few  days  more,  new 
shoots  will  appear  from  every  joint  on  the  stalks  that 
were  left  standing ;  just  at  this  stage  the  stalks  are  con- 
sidered very  sweet  and  nutritious.  Now  cuj;  them  down 
and  store  an  some  sheltered  place  at  once  ;  they  will  not 
spoil.  Chop  and  feed  through  the  winter. 

SOUTHERN   FIELD-  OE  STOCK   PEAS. 

If  it>  is  desired  to  use  the  vines  for  hay,  cut  and  cure 
them  when  the  pods  are  just  about  grown  and  before  they 
begin  to  ripen  in  the  least.  Throw  into  small  heaps  as 
fast  as  cut,  and  let  them  remain  until  cured ;  then  haul 
up  and  put  away.  Never  pull  up  the  vines  by  the  roots, 
as  the  roots  will  not  be  eaten  by  cattle  ;  besides  they  are 
of  great  benefit  to  the  soil  if  permitted  to  remain  and 
decay  therein.  If  seeds  are  wanted,  let  the  pods  become 
thoroughly  dry  and  ripe  ;  gather  and  store,  and  thresh  at 
leisure.  If  the  planting  is  for  the  purpose  of  enriching 
the  soil,  then  they  may  be  plowed  under  at  the  same  stage 
as  for  making  hay.  It  is  extremely  doubtful,  however, 
if  it  pays  to  turn  under  any  green  crop,  merely  for  the 
purpose  of  fertilizing  the  ground.  My  opinion  is,  that 
it  is  as  good,  if  not  better,  just  to  permit  such  a  crop  to 
mature  and  die  upon  the  surface  of  the  ground.  The 
labor  of  plowing  under  is  saved,  which  is  no  small  item. 


WHAT   TO    DO   WITH   THE   CROPS.  79 

SORGHUM   FOR   SYRUP   OR   SUGAR. 

Let  the  crop  stand  until  the  seeds  are  grown ;  it  is 
thought  that  the  cane  is  sweetest  at  about  this  stage  ;  also 
taste  the  cane,  and  if  found  quite  sweet  it  is  ready  to  cut 
and  grind.  Strip  the  fodder  from  the  canes  ;  save  the 
heads,  as  they  make  good  feed ;  cut  the  canes  and  grind 
as  soon  as  possible,  though  the  canes  may  be  kept  with 
safety  for  several  days,  if  stored  under  a  dry  shelter. 

CUBAN   CANE. 

The  Cuban  or  East  Indian  Sugar  Cane  will  not  fully  ma- 
ture in  Georgia  and  other  similar  climates,  therefore  it 
must  be  permitted  to  grow  as  long  as  possible,  being  sure 
to  cut  it  before  a  killing  frost.  Strip  the  fodder  and 
store  it,  and  grind  the  canes  as  soon  as  possible. 

SUNFLOWER. 

The  only  part  of  this  plant  worth  saving  is  the  seed. 
Gather  when  matured  and  store  them,  but  be  sure  that 
they  are  dry,  or  they  will  spoil.  The  seeds  are  excellent 
food  for  horses,  chickens,  etc. 

TEOSINTE. 

This  being  a  tropical  plant  of  long,  continued  and  pro- 
digiously rapid  growth,  it  does  not  reach  maturity  in 
this  and  more  northerly  climates,  but  grows  on  all  through 
the  summer,  increasing  in  foliage  and  stalk  ;  so  the  longer 
it  stands  the  heavier  the  yield.  Cut  it  down  before  the 
least  frost  comes  on  it,  and  shock  up  securely,  and  cure 
same  as  fodder  corn. 

TOBACCO. 

After  being  cured,  tobacco  is  manufactured  into  segars 
and  plugs,  and  powdered,  and  packed  in  to  large  and  small 
bags  and  boxes  and  placed  upon  the  market  to  be  con- 
sumed by  those  who  like  to  smoke  and  chew  the  weed. 
It  is  also  an  excellent  insecticide,  and  is  sometimes  used 
medicinally.  It  is  also  a  very  fine  fertilizer. 


80  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

INDIAN   CORN. 

If  wanted  for  forage,  cut  it  when  the  silk  and  tassel 
appear.  Shock  it  upright  in  the  field,  spread  it  it  out 
at  the  bottom,  giving  it  a  broad  base  so  as  to  prevent  it 
from  being  blown  over,  and  let  it  stand  until  thoroughly 
cured.  This  is  very  nutritious  rough  food  for  stock. 
The  sugar  varieties  are  considered  richest. 

DHOURRA   CORN. 

This  is  also  known  as  Chicken  Corn.  When  it  is  planted 
for  forage,  it  should  be  drilled  thickly  in  the  row  ;  make 
the  rows  three  feet  apart,  cultivate  it,  cut  it  as  soon  as  the 
heads  appear,  and  cure  the  same  as  forage  corn.  It  is  the 
latest  maturing  of  all  the  dhourras,  except  it  be  the  Millo 
Maize.  When  planted  thinly,  say  four  by  two  feet,  and 
cultivated  the  same  as  Indian  corn,  it  produces  consider- 
able grain,  which  is  much  used  in  some  countries  as  a 
food  for  man,  domestic  animals  and  fowls. 

IVORY   WHEAT   OB  EGYPTIAN   RICE   CORN. 

This  may  be  treated  in  the  same  manner  as  the  Dhourra 
corn.  It  is  the  earliest  of  all  the  dhourras,  and  produces 
an  abundant  yield  of  ivory-like  grains,  shaped  similar  to 
wheat,  only  not  so  long.  After  the  first  heads  are  ripe 
and  cut,  it  continues  to  shoot  out  heads  from  each  joint 
along  the  cane,  until  checked  by  frost. 


THE  ROTATION  OF  CROPS. 

A  great  deal  may  be  said  upon  the  subject  of  the  rota- 
tion of  crops,  as  it  is  one  of  considerable  importance  to 
the  planter  who  desires  to  keep  his  lands  always  in  a 
productive  state.  It  is,  however,  not  necessary  to  make 
any  very  extended  remarks  here — a  few  brief  hints  or 


THE    ROTATION   OF   CROPS.  81 

suggestions  will  suffice.  The  rotation  for  the  Southern 
States  must  necessarily  be  different  from  that  of  the 
Northern  States,  or  the  States  where  cotton  does  not 
grow.  We  will,  therefore,  begin  by  stating  our  plan  for 
-,  the  South.  If  the  soil  be  entirely  new,  i.  e.  just  cleared 
of  the  forest,  let  the  first  crop  be  corn  ;  the  second  may 
be  potatoes  or  cotton  ;  the  third,  wheat,  oats;  rye,  or 
barley  ;  the  fourth,  stock  peas  or  clover ;  the  fifth,  rest ; 
then  corn  again,  etc. 

If  the  soil  be  old,  worn  land,  then  begin  with  stock 
pea«,  sown  broadcast,  or  oats  and  clover  sown  together,  or 
rye,  sown  very  thick.  In  either  case,  turn  under  the 
crop,  or  permit  it  to  die -down  on  the  surface.  The  sec- 
ond year,  plant  cotton,  using  commercial  fertilizers  upon 
it.  The  third  year,  sow  oats,  followed  soon  after  these 
are  harvested,  with,  stock  peas.  The  fourth  year,  plant 
corn,  followed  in  September  of  the  same  year  with  oats 
and  clover.  The  fourth  year  let  it  rest  in  the  clover,  and 
continue  it  in  clover  as  long  as  the  growth  and  stand 
is  good,  beginning  again  with  corn.  Use  stable,  or  lot 
manure,  in  every  case  when  it  can  be  conveniently  ob- 
tained. For  more  northerly  sections,  where  cotton  and 
stock  or  southern  field  peas  will  not  matnre,  commence 
on  new  ground  with  corn,  followed  the  next  season  with 
oats  or  some  small  grain.  Next,  sow  down  with  clover 
or  grass,  or  both  mixed,  and  let  remain  as  long  as  the 
growth  is  luxuriant.  Follow  them  with  potatoes,  and  so 
on,  giving  a  year's  rest  now  and  then, 


82  HOW   TO   PLAKT. 


VARIETIES. 

It  is  puzzling  to  many  who  take  up  a  seed  catalogue, 
to  determine  what  variety  they  ought  to  plant,  when 
they  note  the  almost  endless  number  of  varieties  that  are 
catalogued.  Close  investigation  and  experiment  shows 
comparatively  few  varieties  in  reality.  To  state  it  more 
plainly,  there  is  a  great  variety  in  names  but  very  few  in 
fact.  For  instance  take  the  turnip.  The  catalogue  gives 
a  list  of  valuable  winter  turnips,  excellent  for  the  table, 
as  follows  :  Hanover,  Prussian,  Long  French,  Sweet 
German  ;  four  varieties,  but  in  reality  only  one.  Who- 
ever orders  the  good  old-fashioned  Hanover,  will  get  all 
the  balance  of  them  also. 

It  is  even  worse  with  the  cabbage.  The  catalogues 
name  from  thirty  to  fifty  varieties,  but  whoever  plants 
pure  seed  of  the  Early  Jersey  Wakefield,  Winningstadt, 
Early  Flat  Dutch,  Early  Drumhead,  Late  Flat  Dutch, 
Late  Drumhead,  and  Drumhead  Savoy,  will  get  the 
cream  of  the  catalogue.  And  so  on  we  might  go  through 
the  whole  catalogue,  but  we  trust  we  have  said  enough  : 
a  hint  to  the  wise  is  sufficient. 


BIRD  SEEDS. 

The  following  seeds  are  largely  used  for  feeding  Canary 
and  other  birds  :  Canary,  Hemp,  Rape,  Millet,  Lettuce, 
Rice  unhulled,  Maw.  Birds  are  more  fond  of  Cat-tail  or 
Pearl  Millet  than  of  any  other  variety  of  the  Millets.  It 
is  more  costly  than  any  other,  therefore  not  so  much 
used,  but  the  bi-rds  should  be  treated  to  a  repast  of  it 
occasionally. 


STANDARD   SEEDS.  83 

STANDARD  SEEDS. 

It  may  not  be  amiss  here  to  give  a  list  of  thoroughly 
reliable  and  desirable  seeds,  alphabetically  arranged. 

Artichoke — Large  Globe  or  Bur. 

Artichoke  Roots — Jerusalem  and  White  French. 

Asparagus — Conover's  Colossal. 

Beets  for  Table — Bassano,  Eclipse,  Half  Long  Blood, 
"White  Sugar,  Early  Blood,  Turnip-rooted. 

Beets  for  Stock  or  Table — Long  Blood,  White  Sugar, 
Mangel  Wurzel,  Long  Red  Mangel  Wurzel,  Golden  Tank- 
ard Mangold  Wurzel,  Red  Globe  Mangold  Wurzel,  Yel- 
low Globe,  Golden  Yellow  Mammoth. 

Broccoli — Large  Early  White. 

Brussels  Sprouts. 

Cabbage — Early  Jersey  Wakefield,  Early  Winningstadt, 
Early  Drumhead,  Early  Flat  Dutoh,  Late  Flat  Dutch, 
Late  Diumhead,  Drumhead  Savoy,  Green  Curled  Savoy. 

Cardoon— Puvis. 

Carrots  for  Table  —  Early  Scarlet  Horn,  Orauge, 
Danvers. 

Carrots  for  Slock — Long  Orange,  Yellow  Belgian. 

Cauliflower — Early  Dwarf  Erfurt,  Early  Snowball. 

Celery — Large  White  Solid,  Dwarf  "Vfhite,  White  Plume, 
Celeriac  or  Turnip  Rooted. 

Chervil — Curled. 

Collard — Native  Southern,  Landreth's  Marrow. 

Corn  Salad — Broad  Leaved. 

Cress — Broad  Leaved. 

Cress — Water. 

Cucumber — Early  White  Spine,  Short  Prolific;  for 
Pickles,  Long  Green  Turkey  ;  Telegraph,  for  hot  house. 

Corn  for  Roasting  Ears — Adams'  Early,  Early  Mam- 
moth Sugar,  Landreth's  Sugar,  Stowell's  Evergreen  Sugar, 
Late  Mammoth  Sugar,  White  Dent,  Golden  Dent,  Blount's 
White  Prolific. 


84  HOW  TO   PLANT. 

Corn  for  Field  Culture — Early  Golden  Dent,  Early 
White  Dent,  Blount's  White  Prolific,  Champion  White 
Pearl,  Large  White  Flint,  Mammoth  White  Surprise, 
Etowah  Valley  White,  Eureka  White,  large  ;  Little  Red 
Cob  All  Corn,  Johnson's  Large  White  ;  Pop  Corn,  Rice  ; 
Ensilage  Corn,  the  common,  large  growing,  late  varieties  ; 
Chester  County  Gourd  Seed. 

Beans,  Bush  or  Bunch — Early  Red  Valentine,  Early 
Dwarf  German  Wax,  Early  White  Valentine,  Early  Golden 
Wax,  Ivory  Pod  Wax,  Crystal  Wax. 

Beans,  Bush  or  Bunch,  for  Shelling — Royal  Dwarf 
White  Kidney,  Navy  White,  Red  French ;  for  winter, 
Dwarf  White  Marrow. 

Beans,  Pole — Large  Lima,  Carolina  or  Sieva,  White 
Dutch  Case  Knife,  Southern  Prolific  Green  Pod,  Snap 
Short,  Crease  Back,  Corn-field. 

Beans,  English — Broad  Windsor,. 

Beans — Jack,  for  arbors. 

Dandelion — Cabbaging. 

Egg  Plant — Large  Round  Purple. 

Endive — White  Curled. 

Kale— Dwarf  German,  Tall  Scotch,  Sea. 

Kohl  Rabi  or  Turnip  Rooted  Cabbage,  White  Vienna, 

Leek — Large  London,  Musselburgh. 

Lettuce — Early  Curled  Silesian,  Early  Cabbage,  Early 
Summer,  Prize  Head,  Heat-Resisting  Cos,  Bloomsdale 
Reliable,  Oak  Leaved. 

Melon,  Water — Rattlesnake,  Ivy,  Ice  Rmd,  Kolbs' 
Gem. 

MusJcmelon — Citron  for  preserving  or  Cantelope,  Extra 
Early  Citron,  Netted  Nutmeg,  Casaba,  California,  Reed- 
land  Giant,  Nixon. 

Mushroom — Spawn. 

Mustard — Giant  Southern  Curled,  Creole  Curled, 
Large  Leaved. 

Nasturtium.  — Dwarf  and  Running. 


STANDARD   SEEDS.  85 

OTcra — Long  White  Smooth  Velvet  Pod,  Long  Greent 

Onion  Seeds — Bloomsdale  Pearl,  Extra  Early  Red, 
Italian  White  or  Red. 

Onion  Sets. — Silver  Skin,  Extra  Early  Bed,  Yellow 
Danvers,  Potato,  Top  or  Bottom,  Shallottes. 

Parsley — Plain  Leaved,  Moss  Curled. 

Parsnips — Sugar. 

Pepper — Small  Chili  Red,  Long  Cayenne,  Large  Sweet 
Spanish,  Early  Dawn. 

Pumpkin — Cashaw,  Large  Field,  Potato. 

Peas— Extra  Early,  Little  Gem,  American  Wonder, 
Pride  of  the  Market,  Stratagem,  Telephone,  Large  Mar- 
rowfat. 

Radish — White  Turnip  Rooted,  Red  Turnip  Rooted, 
Long  Scarlet  Strapped  Leaved,  Long  White  Lady  Finger, 
Golden  Globe,  Large  Russian  White. 

Rape. 

Rhubarb— or  Pie  Plant. 

Salsify — or  Oyster  Plant. 

Spinach — Bloomsdale,  Prickly  Seeded. 

Squash— Early  White  Bush,  Golden  Summer  Crook- 
neck,  Hubbard,  Marblehead. 

Tomato — Livingston's  Favorite,  Livingston's  Perfec- 
tion, Acme,  Golden  Trophy. 

Turnip — Early  Purple  Top  Munich,  Early  Flat  Dutch, 
Early  White  Egg,  Pomeranian  White  Globe,  Cowhorn, 
Yellow  Aberdeen,  Yellow  Ruta  Baga,  Southern  Prize, 
Seven  Top,  for  Greens,  Sweet  German  Winter. 

Sweet  Herbs — Anise,  Bene,  Borage,  Sweet  Marjoram, 
Sage,  Thyme,  Elecampane. 

Horse- Radish. 

Potatoes,  Irish — Early  Rose,  Snowflake,  Peerless, 
Beauty  of  Hebron,  Burbanks. 

Potatoes,  Sweet — Yellow  Yam,  Poplar  Root  Spanish. 

Rice —  Upland  and  Lowland. 


86  HOW   TO   PLANT. 

Field  Peas — Lady,  White,  White  Crowder,  Coffee,  all 
for  table. 

Garlick,  Chivea,  Chufa,  Peanuts. 


FIELD  SEEDS. 

Artichokes — Roots,  White  French. 

Beans— White  Navy,  White  Marrow,  Tree. 

Broom  Corn — Evergreen. 

Barley. 

Buckwheat. 

Corn— White  Dent  Early,  Golden  Dent  Early,  Cham- 
pion White  Pearl,  Mammoth  White  Surprise,  Medium, 
Little  Eed  Cob  All  Corn  Medium,  Etow ah  Valley,  White 
Late,  Eureka  W^hite  Late,  White  Flint,  Kaffa  Millet 
Corn,  Moseby  Prolific  Corn,  Standard  Southern  White. 

Castor  Beans. 

Cotton  Seeds — Peterkin,  Simpson's,  Duncan's,  Dick- 
son's,  Ozur  Silk,  Herlong,  Sea  Island,  Nankeen. 

Clover — Kentucky  Bed,  White  Dutch,  Crimson  An- 
nual, Burr  Clover,  Alsike,  Sapling,  Lucerne,  Alfalfa,  Cow, 
Japan  or  Lespedeza. 

Chufa — Sweet  Spanish. 

Flax. 

Grass— Orchard,  Red  Top  or  Herd's  of  Pa.,  Tall  Mea- 
dow, Kentucky  Blue,  Texas  Blue,  Johnson,  Bermuda, 
Timothy,  Sweet  Vernal,  Velvet,  Crab,  Meadow  Fescue, 
Perennial  Rye,  Italian  Rye. 

Gourd — Dipper,  Sugar  Trough,  Bonnet. 

Oats— Red.  Rust  Proof,  Black  Bust  Proof,  Burt's  Extra 
Early  Rust  Proof,  Welcome  White,  Southern  Black, 
Northern  White. 

Rice— Upland  White,  Low  Land  Red,  Wild,  for  fish 
ponds. 


FIELD   SEEDS.  87 

Wheat,  Winter— Early  Purple  Stem  White,  Early  Pur- 
ple Stem  Ked,  Dallas,  Amber,  Mediterranean,  Red 
Bearded. 

Wheat,  Spring — White  Fife,  French  Imperial,  Sas- 
katchewan. 

Millet — German  or  Golden,  Cat-Tail  or  Pearl,  Hunga- 
rian, Missouri,  Sugar. 

Millo  Maize — For  forage. 

Kaffa  Corn — For  forage. 

Osage  Orange — For  hedges. 

Peas,  Southern  Stock,  Field  or  Cow  Peas — Coffee, 
Bunch,  Whip-poor- Will,  Bunch,  Clay  Running,  Black 
Running,  Tory,  Running,  Red  Ripper  Running,  White 
Lady,  White  Crowder. 

Sorghum  Cane — Early  Amber,  Early  Orange. 

Sunflower — Mammoth  Russian. 

Teosinte  (Eucliicena,  luxuriant] — A  wonderful  forage 
plant. 

Tobacco — Havana,  imported  ;  Big  Havana,  domestic  ; 
White  Burleigh,  Gold  Leaf,  Hyco,  Hester. 

Poppy — For  opium. 

Vetch — For  forage  and  enriching  soil. 

Hop  Vines,  Dhourra  Corn,  Egyptian  Rir.e  Corn,  Ivory 
Wheat,  Rural  Branching  Sorghum,  PriMey  Camfrey, 
Soja  Beans,  Lupines. 

Jute — For  fiber. 

Ramie — For  fiber. 

Hemp — For  fiber. 

Peanuts  or  Finders,  Goobers — Small  Tennessee  or 
Georgia,  Large  Virginia,  North  Carolina,  Spanish,  Small 
Prolinp. 


INDEX. 


Alfalfa 29 

Artichoke,  Globe 37 

Artichoke,  Jerusalem 9,  GO,  72 

Asparagus    37,72 

Barley 20 

Beans,  Bush  or  Bunch 10,  39 

Butter 39 

English  Dwarf 40 

Jack t 40 

Lima 39 

Pole 39 

Sicva 39 

Snap-Shorts 39,73 

White,  for  Winter 39,  74 

Beet-Field 10 

Beets.  Garden 38,  73 

Bird  Seeds 82 

Borecole 46 

Broccoli 38,  73 

Broom  Corn 18,75 

Brussels  Sprouts ..  39,73 

Buckwheat 21,76 

Cabbage 40,74 

Cantaloupe 15 

Cardoon. 42 

Carrot 15,  42,  74 

Castor  Beans 60,  76 

Cauliflower 43 

Celeriac 44 

Celery 43 

Turnip-rooted 44 

Chervil 44 

Chicory '. 62 

China  Grass 63 

Chives ~ 61 

Chufa,  Spanish 27 

Clover,  Alsikc 28 

Burr 28 

California 28 

Crimson  Annual 28 

Japan 29 

Kentucky  Red 28 

Red 2S.  75 

Sapling 88 

Spotted  Medic 28 

White 28 

Collard 42 

(88) 


Corn,  Broom 18.  75 

Dhonrra 20,  80 

Egyptian  Rice 21,80 

Kaffai 26 

Indian 11,73,80 

Early  Field 13 

Ensilage 13 

Field 11 

Fodder 13,26 

Pop 13 

Sweet,  or  Sugar 13 

Corn  Salad 44 

Cotton,  Upland 19,75 

Sea  Island 20 

Cress 44 

Crops,  Rotation  of 80 

Crops,  What,  to  do  with  the 72 

Cucumber '. .  .45 

Dandelion 45 

Dliourra  Corn 26 

Egg  Plant 45 

Elecampane ..60 

Endive     46 

Fanning,  Profitable 68 

Flax 17 

Flower  Seeds 63 

Forage  Plants 72 

Fruit  Shrubs  and  Distances 65 

Fruit  Trees 64 

Fruit  Trees,  Distances  Apart 65 

Garlic 46 

Gourds 60 

Grain,  Harvesting 76 

Grape  Vines 65 

Grass.  Bermuda 31 

China 63 

Crab 32 

Herd's 30 

Johnson 31 

Kentucky  Blue 30 

Meadow  Soft  32 

Meadow  Fescue 32 

Mixture  of 33 

Orchard 30 

Pampas HI 

Red-top 30 

Sweet-scented  Vernal ...  . .  32 


89 


Grass,  Tall  Meadow  Oat 30 

Texas  Blue 30 

Timothy 32 

Velvet    32 

Wild  Rye 33 

Green  Crops,  Turning  Under 69 

Hemp 17 

Hop  Seed 35 

Hop  Vines 61 

Horseradish 60 

Jute 63 

Kale 46 

Kohlrabi 47 

Leek 47 

Lettuce 47 

Lucerne 29 

Lupines 62 

Mangel  Wurzel. 10 

Martynia 47 

Melon,  Musk 15 

Water 14 

Millet,  Cat-tail 25,77 

German 25,77 

Hungarian 25 

Pearl 25 

Sugar 24 

Mushrooms 47 

Mustard 48 

Nasturtium 49 

Oats 21 

Okra 49 

Onion 49,74 

Button 50 

Sots 50 

Osage  Orange 62 

Oyster  Plant 56 

Pampas  Grass 61 

Parsley 50 

Parsnip 51 

Pea,  Southern  Cow 16,  78 

Peas.  Conch 52 

English 51 

Garden 51 

Japan 51 

Peanuts 27 

Pepper 52 

Pepper-grass 44 

Poppy. 34 

Potato,  Irish 52,75 

Potato,  Sweet 17,  54 


Prickly  Comfrey. 35 

Profitable  Farming.. 68 

Pumpkins 18 

Radish 55 

Ramie 63 

Rape 55 

Rhubarb 56 

Rice 22.  77 

Rice,  Wild 33 

Root  Crops 69 

Roqnette 55 

Rye 21 

Salsify 56 

Black 56 

Scolymns 62 

Scorzonera 56 

Sea  Kale 56 

Seeds,  Board  for  Covering 8 

Flower 63 

Standard  Garden 83 

Standard  Field 86 

Tender  and  Hardy 7 

Times  for  Sowing 7 

Tree 62 

SojaBeans 61 

Sorghum 23,  77 

Sorghum  for  Sugar 79 

Sorrel 57 

Spinach 56 

Squash 57 

Strawberries 65 

SngarCane 23,79 

Sun  Flower 23,  79 

Sweet  Herbs 59 

Sweet  Potato 17,  54 

Tarragon 61 

Teosinte 14,79 

Tobacco 34,79 

Tomato 57 

Tree  Seeds 62 

Trees,  Fruit 64 

Turning  Under  Green  Crops, 69 

Turnips 59 

Varieties  of  Plants 82 

Vetches 35 

Water  Cress 45 

What  to  do  with  the  Crops 72 

Wheat 22 

Whit  louf...  ..62 


NEW  AMERICAN  FARM  BOOK. 


ORIGINALLY  BT 


AUTHOR  OF  "  DISEASES  OF  DOMESTIC  ANIMALS,"  AND  POKMERLT  3DITOB  O* 

THE  "AMERICAN  AGRICULTURIST." 

REVISED  AKD  ENLARGED  BT 

LEWIS     F.    ALLEN, 

AUTHOR  OF   "AMERICAN   CATTLE,"    EDITOR  OF  THE    "AMERICAN 
HERD  BOOK,"   ETC. 

C  O  IN"  T  IE  :XT  T  S  : 


INTRODUCTION.  —  Tillage  Husbandry 
— Grazing  —  Feeding — Breeding — 
Planting,  etc. 

CHAPTER  I.  —Soils  —  Classification- 
Description  —  Management  —  Pro- 
perties. 

CHAPTER  II. — Inorganic  Manures — 
Mineral  —  Stone  —  Earth  —  Phos- 
phatic 

CHAPTER  III.  —  Organic  Manures  — 
Their  Composition — Animal — Ve- 
getable. 

CHAPTER  IV. — Irrigation  and  Drain- 
ing. 

CHAPTER  V. — Mechanical  Divisions 
of  Soils  — Spading  — Plowing— Im- 
plements. 

CHAPTER  VI. — The  Grasses — Clovers 
—  Meadows  —  Pastures  —  Compara- 
tive Values  of  Grasses — Implements 
for  their  Cultivation. 

CHAPTER  VII.— Grain,  and  its  Culti- 
vation —  Varieties  —  Growth— Har- 
vesting. 

CHAPTER  VIII.— Leguminous  Plants 
— The  Pea— Bean  —  English  Field 
Bean— Tare  or  Vetch — Cultivation 
— Harvesting. 

CHAPTER  IX. — Roots  and  Esculents — 
Varieties— Growth  —  Cultivation  — 
Securing  fie  Crops— Uses— Nutri- 
tive Equivalents  ot  Different  Kinds 
of  Forag3. 

CHAPTER  X.— Fruits— Apples— Cider 
— Vinegar — Pears — Quinces — Plums 
Peaoh33  —  Apricot  3  —  Nectarines  — 
Smaller  Fruits— Plantingy-Cultiva- 
tion— Gathering— Preserving. 

CHAFFER  Xi.— Miscellaneous  Objects 
of  Cultivation,  aside  from  the  Or- 
dinary Farm  Crops— Broom-cora— 
Flax— Cotton— Hemp— Sugar  Cane 
Sorghum— Maple  Sugar -Tobacco- 
Indigo— Madder— Wood— Sumach- 
Teasel  —  Mustard  —  Hops  —Castor 
Beau. 

CHAPTER  XII.—  Aids  and  Objects  of 
Agriculture  —  Rotation  of  Crops, 
and  their  Effects— Weeds— Restora- 


tion of  Worn-out  Soils— Fertilizing 
Barren  Lands— Utility  of  Birds- 
Fences— Hedges— Farm  Roads- 
Shade  Trees— Wood  Lands— Time 
of  Cutting  Timber— Tool  3— Agri- 
cultural Education  of  the  Farmer. 

CHAPTER  XIII. — Farm  Buildings- 
House  —  Barn — Sheds  —  Cisterns  — 
Various  other  Outbuildings— Steam, 
ing  Apparatus. 

CHAPTER  XIV.— Domestic  Animals 
— Breeding — Anatomy— Respiration 
— Consumption  of  Food 

CHAPTER  XV.— Neat  or  Horned  Cattle 
Devons  —  Herefords — Ayreshires  — 
Galloways  —  Short -horns  —  Alder- 
neys  or  Jerseys— Dutch  or  Holstein 
—Management  from  Birth  to  Milk- 
ing  Labor,  or  Slaughter. 

CHAPTER  XVI.— The  Dairy- Milk- 
Butter— Cheese— Different  Kinds- 
Manner  of  Working. 

CHAPTER  XVII.  —  Sheep  —  Merino- 
Saxon — South  Down  —  The  Long- 
wooled  Breeds— Cotswold— Lincoln 
—  Breeding  —  Management  —  Shep- 
herd Dogs. 

CHAPTER  XVITI.  —  The  Horse— De- 
scription of  Different  Breeds— Their 
Various  Uses — Breeding — Manage- 
ment. 

CHAPTER  XIX. —The  Ass— Mule  — 
Comparative  Labor  of  Working 
Animals. 

CHAPTER  XX.  —  Swine  —  Different 
Breeds  —  Breeding — Rearing  —  Fat- 
tening—Curing Pork  and  Hame. 

CHAPTER  XXI.  —  Poultry— Hens,  or 
Barn  door  Fowls  —  Turkey  —  Pea-* 
cock— Guinea  Hen— Goose  — Duck 
— Honey  Bees. 

CHAPTER  XXII.  —  Diseases  of  Ani- 
mals—What Authority  Shall  We 
Adopt  ?  —  Sheep  —  Swine  —  Treat- 
ment and  Breeding  of  Horses. 

CHAPTER  XXIII.—  Conclusion— Gene- 
ral Remarks  —  The  Farmer  who 
Lives  by  his  Occupation — The  Ama- 
teur Farmer— Sundry  Useful  Tables. 


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Gardening  for  Young  and  Old. 

THE 

CULTIVATION  OF  GARDEN  VEGETABLES  IN  THE 
FARM  GARDEN. 

By  JOSEPH    HARRIS,  M.S., 

Author  of  "Walks  and  Talks  on  the  Fawn"  "Harrison,  the  Pig"  "Talks  on 
Manures"  etc. 


CONTENTS. 

Introduction. — An  Old  and  a  New  Garden.  — Gardening  for  Boys.--How  to 
Begin. — Preparing  the  Soil. — Killing  the  Weeds. — About  High  Farming.— Com- 
petition in  Crops.— The  Manure  Question.— The  Implements  Needed.— Start- 
ing Plants  in  the  House  or  in  tne  Hot-bed.- The  Window-box.- Making  the 
Hot  bed.-  Cold  Frames.— Insects.— The  Use  of  Poisons.— The  Care  of  Poisons. 
—The  Cultivation  of  Vegetables  in  the  Farm  Garden.— The  Cultivation  of 
Flowers. 

ILLLUST  RATED. 

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Gardening  for  Profit: 

A   GUIDE  TO  THE  SUCCESSFUL  CULTIVATION  OF  THE 

Market  and  Family  G-arden. 

By    PETER    HENDERSON, 
Author  of  "Practical  Floriculture"  and  " Gardening  for  Pleasure" 

FINELY    ILLUSTRATED. 

A  now  well  known  and  standard  work  on  Market  and  Family  Gardening.  It 
is  the  first  book  of  the  kind  prepared  by  a  Market  Gardener,  in  this  country. 
The  author's  successful  experience  of  more  than  twenty-five  years,  enables  him 
to  give  a  most  valuable  record.  It  is  an  original  and  purely  American  work,  and 
not  made  up,  as  books  on  gardening  too  often  are,  by  quotations  from  foreign 
authors.  Everything  is  made  perfectly  plain,  and  the  subject  treated  in  all  its 
details,  from  the  selection  of  the  soil  to  preparing  the  products  for  market. 
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Gardening  for  Pleasure: 

A    GUIDE    TO    THE    AMATEUR    IN    THE 

Fruit,   Vegetable,   and    Flower   G-arden 

WITH  FULL  DIRECTIONS  FOR  THE 

Greenhouse  Conservatory  and  I  Mot  Garden. 

By    PETER    HENDERSON, 
Author  of  "Gardening  for  Profit"  and  "Practical  Floriculture." 

ILL-IT  ST.  HATED . 

This  work  is  prepared  to  meet  the  wants  of  all  classes,  in  Country,  City,  and 
Village,  who  keep  a  Garden  for  their  own  enjoyment  rather  than  for  the  sale  of 
products.  It  is  adapted  to  meet  the  wants  of  the  amateur  in  in-door  and  out- 
door gardening.  It  is  one  of  the  best  guides  to  Window  Gardening  we  know  of. 
The  work  includes  fruit,  vegetable,  and  flower-gardening,  greenhouses  aim 
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Practical  Forestry. 


A   TREATISE    ON    THE    PROPAGATION,  PLANTING,   AND    CULTIVATION, 
WITH  A  DESCRIPTION,  AND  THE  BOTANICAL  AND  POPULAR  NAMES 

OF  ALL   THE 

INDIGENOUS  TREES  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES, 

BOTH  EVERGREEN  AND  DECIDUOUS, 

WITH  NOTES  ON  A  LARGE  NUMBER  OF  THE  MOST  VALUABLE 

EXOTIC    SPECIES. 

By  ANDREW  S.  FULLER, 

Author  of  "  Strawberry  Guitarist,"  "  Grape  Culturist,"  "  SmallFruit  Culturist,"  etc. 

ILLUSTRATED. 
CLOTH,  12mo.    PRICE,  POST-PAID,  $1.50. 


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Barn  Plans  and  Outbuildings. 

Two  Hundred  and  Fifty-Seven  Illustrations. 

A  Most  Valuable  Work,  full  of  Ideas,  Hints,  Suggestions, 
Plans,  etc.,  by  Practical  Writers,  for  the 

Construction  of  Barns  and  all  Outbuildings. 


CHAPTERS  ABB  DEVOTED,  AMONG  OTHEB  SUBJECTS,  TO  THE 

ECONOMIC  ERECTION  AND  USE  OF  BARNS. 


i  Jeneral  Farm  Barns, 
battle  Barns  and  Stable 
>airy  Barns, 
!  Sheep  Barns  and  Sheds, 
rriage  Houses, 
ult         - 


poultry 

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1  tool  He 
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ouses  and  Cribs, 


Souses, 
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ike  Houses; 
_„  Kennels, 
ird  Houses, 

ellars  and  Root  Houses. 


THE  PRESERVATION  OF  FODDER  IN  SILOS. 

Illustrated  Works  upon  Barns  and  Out-door  Buildings  have  hitherto  been  so 
expensive  as  to  limit  their  circulation  to  comparatively  few  in  number.  This 
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TALKS     ON     MANURES. 

By  JOSEPH  HARRIS,  M.  S. 

Of  Jforelon  Firm,  Kw.heater,  New   York.     Author  of  "  Wilks  and  Talks  on  th» 
Farm"  "  Talks  on  Farm  Crops,"  "  Harris  on  the  Pig,"  etc. 


While  we  have  no  lack  of  treatises  upon  artificial  fertilizers,  there  is  no  work 
in  which  the  main  stay  of  the  farm—  the  manure  made  upon  the  farm—  is  treated  so 
satisfactorily  or  thoroughly  as  in  this  volume.  Starting  with  the  question 

"WHA.T    IS    M^JVURE  «?  " 

the  author,  well-known  on  both  sides  of  the  water  by  his  writings,  runs  through  in 
sufficient  detail  every  source  of  manure  on  the  farm,  discussing  the  methods  of 
making  rich  manure  ;  the  proper  keeping  and  applying  it,  and  especially  the 


and  the  effects  of  different  artificial  fertilizers,  as  compared  with  farm-yard 
manure,  upon  different  crops.  In  this  he  makes  free  use  of  the  striking  series  of 
sxperiments  instituted  years  ago,  and  still  continued,  by  Lawes  and  Gilbert,  of 
Rothamsted,  England.  The 


in  which  the  results  of  these  experiments  are  given,  a  re  here  for  the  first  time 
made  accessible  to  the  American  farmer.  In  fact,  there  is  scarcely  any  point,  re- 
lating to  fertilizing  the  soil,  including  the  suitable  manures  for  special  crops, 
that  is  not  treated,  and  while  the  teachings  arc  founded  upon  the  most  elaborate 
scientific  researches,  they  are  so  far  divested  of  the  technical  language  of  science 
as  to  commend  tnemselves  to  farmers  as  eminently  '"  practical."  It  is  not  often 
that  the  results  of  scientific  investigations  are  presented  in  a  manner  so  thoroughly 
popular.  12mo.  PRICE,  POST-PAID,  $1.50. 

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By  S.  B.  REED,  Architect. 


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and  will,  it  is  believed,  prove  one  of  the 

MOST  POPULAR  ARCHITECTURAL  BOOKS 

ever  issued.  It  gives  a  wide  range  of  design,  from  a  dwelling  costing  $250  np  to 
$8,000,  and  adapted  to  farm,  village,  and  town  residences.  Nearly  all  of  these 
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featuie  of  the  work  imparts  a  value  over  any  similar  publications  of  the  kind  that 
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ESTIMATE  OF  THE  QUANTITY  OF  EVERY  ARTICLE  USED 

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any  one  of  the  buildings  here  presented. 

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The  American  Agriculturist 

FOB  THE 

Farm,  Garden,  and  Household. 

Established  in  1842. 

The  Best  aM  Cheapest  Agricultural  Journal  in  the  forliL 

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The  only  purely  Agricultural  German  paper  in  the  United  States,  and  the 
best  in  the  world.  It  contains  all  of  the  principal  matter  of  the  English  Edition, 
together  with  special  departments  for  German  cultivators,  prepared  by  writers 
trained  for  the  work.  Terms  same  as  for  the  "  American  Agriculturist." 

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FARM  HOMES. 


iisr-Docms 


OUT-DOORS. 


By   E.    H.    LELAND. 

ILLUSTRATED. 

This  is  a  most  charming  book,  and  should  be  in  every  farm  home  in  the 
land.  It  is  written  in  a  most  captivating  style  by  a  writer  thoroughly  familiar 
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handsomely  printed  on  tinted  paper,  bound  in  extra  cloth,  beveled  edges,  black 
and  gold. 

THREE    SAMPLE    CHAPTERS.^^ 

CHAPTER  I.-BuiLDiNG.-The  Site-  The  Plan—  TheM|^MIPials—  Sun- 
light— Halls—  Bath-rooms-  Ventilation  -Drainage  and^^MP^eT^lth. 

CHAPTER  II.—  FINISHING.  —Calcimine—  An  ExceM^White  wash—  Borders 
—Wood-work—  Mantels—  Hall  Windows. 

CHAPTER  III.—  FURNISHING.  -The  Spare  Bedroom—  The  Boys1  Room—  The 
Old  People's  Room—  Mother's  Room—  The  Girls'  Room—  The  Dining-room—  The 
Parlor. 

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among  other  topics  :  Farmers1  Wives.—  Farm  Neighborhoods.—  The  Dairy-Room 
and  Butter-Making.—  Window  Plants.—  The  Vegetable  Garden.—  Small  Fruits 
and  Garden  Fruit  Trees.  The  Best  Foods  and  some  Best  Methods  of  Preparing 
Them.—  A  Few  Simple  Luxuries. 

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THE  SADDLE-HORSE. 

A    Complete    Guide    for    Riding    and    Training. 

This  is  a  complete  and  reiiable  Guide-Book  for  all  who  desire  to  acquire  the 
accomplishment  of  horsemanship,  and  who  w  sh  to  teach  their  animals  how  to 
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